.0 Q 



<$ 



5 / ■ 



0^ ^ 











* w l'^^W& 



£ '^ 



o 5 ,SS X >, 






,0 o 



, - .0' -o 



<\ '/, 










i 




Tea Hills of China. 



Tea-BIend!nS 



AS 



BY 

JOSEPH JV£. ^^AX^H, 

AUTHOR OF 



!TS 



History and Mystery. 




-hV.v^ 



-^ 



"THE CUP THAT CHEEES BUT NOT IMEEEIATES."— Cowper. 



PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 
1896. 



COPYRIGHT 

BY 

JOSEPH M. WALSH 

1896. 



^- 



Z(1 



CONTENTS. 

Pages. 

I.— Introduction 7-1 1 

II. — Classification and Description of 

Teas 1 3~3 6 

III. — Art of Testing and Selecting Teas . 37-44 

IV. — Adulteration and Detection . . . 45-49 

V. — Art of Blending Teas 5 I_ 9 r 

VI. — Art of Keeping, Selling and 

Preparing Tea 93-104 




branch of Tea Plant.) 



I^ART I. 

INTRODUCTION. 

>^"'HERE is no article handled by the grocer which 
I PV demands greater attention, engages more of his 
time, or has a more important bearing upon the 
success of his business than Tea, as it stands in many- 
respects far ahead of all the other commodities in com- 
manding and maintaining patronage, as well as in attract- 
ing and retaining trade for numerous other articles, and 
at the same time yielding a larger margin of profit to 
the dealer. Gain being the fundamental object of all 
business transactions, and as tea to the grocer plays such 
an essential part in determining this profit, we may be 
excused if, in considering the article from a purely 
practical standpoint, we urge the relation which it has 
to the success of the dealer, and who, as a general rule, 
experiences much more difficulty in the judicious selec- 
tion of his Tea than in any other staple he trades in. 
The cause of this difficulty is obvious to dealers in Tea 
in general, being entirely due to the numerous varieties 
and almost innumerable grades, flavors and characters of 
the commodity with which he is confronted and to be 
selected from in order to satisfy the diversity of tastes 
and various preferences to be catered to in order to please 
each individual taste and preference. It therefore re- 
quires no ordinary skill or brief experience to make the 
proper selection or combination to suit the consumer 
under these trying circumstances. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The acquisition of such skill or knowledge, for all 
practical purposes, is not, however, quite as difficult as is 
supposed by many dealers, it being fairly obtained by 
an intelligent study of the leading varieties and grades 
most in demand in the country or section of consump- 
tion, in addition to a few simple and inexpensive experi- 
ments by the dealer in order to familiarize himself with 
the leading characters and values of the different varie- 
ties, grades and flavors of the Teas best adapted to 
each particular class or section of the country in which 
he may be doing business. Little is known, compara- 
tively, in this country particularly, of the art or principle 
of blending or " mixing " of Teas. The American dealer 
and consumer alike being averse to the practice as a 
general rule, regarding it as about on a parity with the 
other too numerous forms of adulteration and sophistica- 
tion now in vogue, not only in the countries of consump- 
tion, but also in those of production. Such objections, 
however, are entirely erroneous, as it is an acknowledged 
fact that a combination of different varieties of wheat 
make better flour, the same being true of coffee and 
many other staples of diet and drink, so that the practice 
of blending Teas for the consumer, if properly under- 
stood and skillfully and judiciously performed, would 
prove a more satisfactory one to the consumer, and at 
the same time a more profitable one to the dealer. The 
object of blending being, not as the Tea-using public 
imagines to lower the standard or reduce the cost at 
the expense of quality, but to produce a measurably 
better Tea and obtain a fuller and heavier liquor in addi- 
tion to a much finer and more desirable flavor than that 
yielded by any single variety when used alone. A Tea, 
in short, giving better satisfaction to the constimer at a 
more moderate price, and at the same time allotving a 



INTRODUCTION. 



better margin of profit to the dealer without lowering his 
standard of quality. To illustrate, a dealer may already 
be selling a Tea to his customers, possessing a pleasing 
and suitable flavor, but be lacking in body or too light in 
liquor, whereas by his adding to it a small proportion of 
one or two other varieties possessing these requisite 
properties the defect is easily and inexpensively 
remedied, and a fuller-liquied, heavier-bodied, richer- 
flavored infusion is produced ; the drawing and drinking 
qualities of the Tea being improved all round without 
extra cost to the dealer or increase of price to the con- 
sumer. It must therefore follow that by the skillful and 
judicious mixing or blending of a number of Teas, each 
differing in variety or grade, a more uniform, pleasing 
and palatable Tea, that is, one richer in liquor, heavier 
in body and more aromatic in flavor, can be produced 
by this now acknowledged principle at a more moderate 
cost to dealer and consumer than can otherwise be 
obtained from any single variety or grade of Tea. 

The idea of blending Teas originally arose from the 
experience incidentally gained by some old and life- 
long Tea dealers, that a beverage richer in liquor, more 
pleasing in flavor, more satisfactory in price to the con- 
sumer and less costly to the dealer, could be produced 
from a number of the different varieties or grades when 
skillfully amalgamated or judiciously combined than 
could otherwise be obtained from any single sort when 
used alone. No sooner was this experience confirmed 
than the " mixing " or blending of Teas was generally 
resorted to by many of those who had the dispensing of 
the commodity to the public. But while some dealers 
had a marked success in this branch of the Tea busi- 
ness from the start, others again who attempted to prac- 
tice it failed completely in their efforts to produce any 



INTRODUCTION. 



satisfactory results to themselves or their customers, the 
end accomplished being instead of an improvement an 
injury and detriment to the quality and value of the Teas 
so combined, more often to such an extent that the 
single and regular variety of Tea in demand would have 
pleased better at less labor, time and cost to the dealer. 
The cause of this failure was, however, due entirely and 
alone to the want of that necessary training, experience 
or intelligent knowledge which would enable the unskilled 
blender to understand the peculiar characteristics and 
affinities of the different varieties and various grades of 
the Teas which are improved by combination, and their 
component parts, as well as to avoid those which are 
deteriorated by the amalgamation. The knowledge and 
skill required for this very particular and precise branch 
of the Tea business being only attained in its perfection 
by numerous tests and constant experiments, which are 
best performed by the admixture of from two to five — 
or more in many instances — small samples of Tea diff- 
ering, frequently materially, in variety, character and 
quality, and alternately changing, altering and substi- 
tuting the varieties and proportions of the same until 
the dealer has finally succeeded in producing a Tea 
unique in character, identified with himself, and differing 
in every respect from that of any Tea offered or sold by 
his competitors, the liquor, flavor and aroma of which 
will prove more pleasing and satisfactory in quality and 
price to his patrons, and at a more moderate cost to 
himself. 

Time and experience have proved beyond question that 
skillful and judicious tea blending will be found to amply 
repay for all the study, labor and expense bestowed on it 
by the dealer, as the chief and only difficulty existing 
in the art lies in the fact of first finding a combination 



INTRODUCTION. 



or combinations that will please the majority of consum- 
ers. But it is an eggregious mistake to imagine that 
the successful or profitable blending of teas consists 
solely in the indiscriminate or injudicious heaping to- 
gether carelessly and indifferently of two or more varie- 
ties or grades of tea in one homogeneous mass without 
the slightest regard to quantity, quality, affinity, affiliation 
or assimilation of leaf, liquor, character or flavor of the 
component parts. While on the contrary the art or prin- 
ciple consists in the proper combining of two or more 
different varieties or grades of tea intended to form the 
combination on an at least intelligent or judicious, if not 
scientific manner, so as to yield a unique or particular 
tea, of uniform quality, strength, flavor and pungency, at 
a given price, being at the same time pleasing and satis- 
factory to the average consumer, and maintaining its 
standard of quality at all times and under all circum- 
stances. 

But while it may be admitted that it is difficult to 
master the art of successful tea blending thoroughly 
without the serving of an apprenticeship to the business, 
and that the combinations that may be found in it are 
almost kaleidescopic in their range, still even the veriest 
novice need not spoil good tea by injudicious mixing, 
as all that is required is a little study and a few simple 
rules carefully followed, although these cannot be sub- 
stituted entirely for years of practical experience in 
such a difficult and at the present time most essential 
branch of the tea business, but will nevertheless prevent 
any serious error, and at the same time insure a fair 
measure of success to the most inexperienced in the art. 




(Chinese Tea Garden.) 



1*^1*1^ IX. 



CIvASSIPICATION AIVr> X>E> 
SCRIPTION O^ TEAS. 



^^■"HE Teas of commerce are classified as China, Japan, 
IT} India, Ceylon and Java Teas, but are generally- 
divided into Green and Black Teas, under which 
terms they are best known to the public. They are again 
sub-divided into numerous varieties and grades, with 
names derived from the districts of production or indi- 
cative of their age, make or quality, these numerous 
applications being almost entirely of Chinese origin. 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 




(China Tea Plant.) 



CHIXA T*EJA.® 



Are divided into Black and Green, the former comprising 
Oolongs, Congous, Souchongs and Scented Teas, the 
latter including Imperials, Gunpowders, Hysons, Young 
Hysons and Twankay or Hyson-skin Teas. 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



15 



-rYl^' 




1 — Firsts. £— Seconds, c — Thirds. (/—Fourths. 
(Black Tea Plant.) 



OOLrONG TEA.® 

Are sub-divided into Ankois, Amoys, Foochows, For- 
mosas, Saryune and Pekoe-Oolongs, grading from low- 
est to highest in the order named. 

Ankoi Oolong — Is a doubtful species of the genus tea 
and said to be prepared solely from the leaves of a shrub 
closely resembling but widely distinct from those of the 
true tea plant. The leaf is rough and coarse, reddish- 
black in color, indifferently prepared, and ragged in gen- 
eral appearance, while the liquor is dark-brown, oily 
or earthy in flavor and bitterly astringent to the taste. It 
is generally used for mixing with low-grade Amoys, to 
which it imparts a wild, rank or weedy flavor, and should 
be avoided by the dealer altogether. 

Amoy Oolongs — Embrace Kokew, Mohea and Nin- 
gyong Oolong teas and are fairly good teas for blending 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



purposes, many of them drawing and drinking exceed- 
ingly well in the cup. The leaf, while large and some- 
what coarse in appearance, is well prepared as a rule, 
while the liquor is clear, strong and frequently pungent. 
The poorer grades, however, possess a wild or herby 
flavor, strongly objected to by the majority of tea con- 
sumers. 

Foochow Oolong — Ranks among the best of 
the black teas of China. The leaf of the finer grades 
being black and silky in appearance, rich and mellow in 
liquor and fragrant in flavor, while the medium and 
lower grades are somewhat larger and looser in make 
they possess splendid cup qualities, making the most 
suitable foundation for all blends in this country, being 
useful and serviceable for the purpose. 

Formosa Oolong — Is unique in leaf, liquor and 
flavor, differing widely in character and flavor from the 
former varieties. They possess a rich, fragrant aroma-, 
the leaf being very pleasing in the hand, evenly curled 
and crapy in texture, and impart tone and character to 
any combination in which they may be introduced. 

Saryune and Pekoe Oolongs— Are very rare sorts 
in this market, the latter deriving its trade-name from 
being liberally sprinkled with Pekoe-tipped leaves. They 
are somewhat large and bold in style, evenly curled and 
pleasing in appearance. The infusion being dark brown 
in color, heavy and full in body and very fragrant in 
flavor. 

CONGOU T\E}A®. 

Congou Teas are grown principally in the Bohea hills 
in China, and are known to trade in this country as 
English Breakfast Teas. They are divided into Kaisow 
or Red-leaf and Moning or Black-leaf Teas, and are a 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 1 7 

distinct variety differing in color, liquor and flavor from 
the Oolong sorts. 

Kaisow — or Red-leaf Congous, comprise, Chingwos, 
Seumoos, Suey-kuts, Saryunes, Sin-chunes, Cheong-soo, 
Cheong-lok, So-how and Yung-how. The leaf is reddish- 
black in color, well and firmly made; the liquor rich-red 
or wine-color, and flavor pungent but pleasing to the 
taste. Their special feature is their delicate and to a 
high degree fragrant flavor, which they impart to other 
Teas in combination, provided the others are not too 
strong or coarse. 

Moning — or Black-leaf Congous include Ning-chows, 
Oonfas, Oonams, Oopacks, Kintucks, Kee-muns, Kiu- 
kangs, Panyongs, Paklins and Paklums, and are black in 
color, stylish in make ; the finer grades being Pekoe- 
tipped and flavored. The infusion is also dark-red or 
wine-colored, but delicate and aromatic, making very 
useful Teas for blending purposes, combining advantage- 
ously with any and all the other varieties. 

SOUOHOIVO TEAS 

Are among the finest and richest of the Black Tea 
sorts of China, but are limited in supply, being chiefly 
prepared from the youngest leaves of the earlier pickings. 
They are known to trade as Lapsing, Padrae, Pekoe, 
Tonquam, Canton and Oolong-Souchongs. The leaf is 
long, flat, handsome and " crapy " in texture, finely and 
artistically curled, being only lightly fired. They yield 
a rich wine-colored liquor, with a flagrant flavor entirely 
peculiar to themselves, and described as " tarry " in 
trade, which, when not too pronounced, adds rather than 
detracts from their value. The product of the later 
pickings are of less strength and flavor, but are still 
smooth and pleasing in liquor and flavor, making very 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



serviceable teas for mixing owing to their general intrinsic 
properties. 

SCENTED T. A BA» 

Form a special class of the Chinese product, and comprise 
Foochow, Canton and Macao Scented Teas. They are 
sub-divided into Capers, Pekoes, Pouchongs, Orange, 
Flowery and Pouchong Pekoes, and are very fragrant, 
being highly scented with the leaves, flowers, blossoms 
and roots of other plants, such as that of the Iris, Jessa- 
mine, Gardenia, Chloranthus and Oleofragrans. Theyare 
principally prepared from the largest but most succulent 
leaves of the first pickings and cured by a series of brisk 
firings and rollings. The dried leaf is finely made, long 
and evenly folded, and the infusion is wine-colored, 
piquant and aromatic, from which fact consumers not 
accustomed to their use erroneously imagine that they 
are much stronger and more exciting than the Oolong 
and Green Teas sorts, and should be used only very 
sparingly in blending. 

Caper — Is so termed from its small, round leaf resem- 
bling capers, and is prepared from the youngest and ten- 
derest leaves of the tea plant. The infusion is of a rich wine- 
color, pungent and aromatic in flavor, forming what is 
termed a bouquet. 

Pekoe — Signifies in Chinese " White down," applied 
to the whitish or downy substance at the end of the 
leaves. It is usually prepared from the young leaf buds 
just expanding, and is a very much overrated variety. 

Pouchong — Is a bold, rough-looking leaf, dull black 
in color and peculiar in scent, the latter being imparted 
to it by the admixture of the seeds of the Chilian flower. 

Orange Pekoe — Is a long, flat, even-leaf tea, jet black 
in color and containing yellowish, downy tops at the 
ends, from which it derives its trade name. 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



*9 



Flowery Pekoe —Is a smaller but more evenly-folded 
leaf, olive-colored with ends ornamented with whitish or 
velvety tips, being also very highly scented with the 
flowers or blossoms of other plants. 

In some of the Chinese districts the scenting material 
is added to the tea during the firing process and after- 
ward separated by sifting, but is, however, more gener- 
ally introduced into the tea after it is prepared and ready 
for packing. It is spread over the tip of the tea and 
allowed to remain there for at least a day, or until it 
becomes strongly impregnated with their moisture, and 
then removed, the duration depending in a great measure 
on the character of the scent employed. 




lpowder. b — Young Hyson, c— Imperial. (/—Hyson, e— Twankey. 
(Green Tea Plant.) 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



GREBNT TEAS 

Include Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows, Tienkes, Tay- 
shings and Pingsueys, district names, and grading in the 
order named. 

Moyune — Is the most valuable intrinsically and com- 
mercially, being far superior to all the others in make 
color, draw and drink. The leaf is firmly rolled, natural 
green in color and extremely uniform in appearance, 
while the liquor is clear, brisk and pungent in flavor, 
forming a splendid variety for blending with any tea. 

Hychows — Are much inferior to the former in leaf 
and liquor, the infusion, although darker in color, is 
lighter in body and devoid of any pronounced flavor. 

Fychows — Are generally bold and rough in leaf, 
dull-green in color, dark and heavy in liquor and 
astringent in flavor, being in the whole a very undesir- 
able sort for any purpose. 

Tienkes — While long and coarse in make are yet 
pleasing to the eye, being chiefly sold in style as they 
will not stand the cup test, the infusion being dark, 
thick, bitter and frequently smoky in flavor owing to 
high firing. 

TayshingS — Like Tienkes look well in the hand, 
being fairly well-made and stylish-looking, but are of a 
leaden-blue color, the result of the facing or coloring 
matter used to enhance their appearance, while the liquor 
is dark and muddy and the flavor earthy to the taste. 

Pingsueys — Are termed by the Chinese Bastard 
Tea, being principally prepared from the leaves of some 
shrub remotely resembling those of the Tea plant. 
While the leaf is very stylish and firmly made it is of 
heavy blue color and greasy in appearance owing to the 
gypsum used in their preparation and are entirely unfit 
for human use. 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



What are known as " Canton " and " Country " 
Green Teas are also spurious Teas, the former being 
manufactured from spent or exhausted Tea leaves, that 
is Tea once used, dried, refired and colored with gypsum 
or Prussian blue. The latter being prepared from the 
leaves of wild or uncultivated Tea plants. 




(Picking Tea in China.) 



SUB=VARIETIES. 

The Green Teas of China are again sub-divided in 
Gunpowders, Imperials, Hysons, Young Hysons and 
Twankays, terms denoting style of make, age or other 
peculiarity, and are too well known to the trade to need 
description. 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



Gunpowder — Is termed by the Chinese " Choo- 
Cha " or Pearl tea, from its small, round or shotty appear- 
ance. > It is generally prepared from the smallest and 
youngest leaves of the green tea plant, its quality corres- 
ponding to the picking and district of growth. The 
product of the first crop is sometimes known as " Pin- 
head " from its extremely small, round or globular 
appearance. 

Imperial — Derives its trade name from being the 
style or make of Tea used in the Imperial household 
and by the Mandarins or wealthier Chinese. That 
exported is prepared from the larger and older leaves of 
the respective pickings and rolled in the same manner as 
the former, from which fact it is also known as " Big Gun- 
powder " and also as "Pea-leaf." But while larger and 
bolder in make it possesses much the same drawing and 
drinking qualities. 

Hyson — Is known to the Chinese as "He-tsien" or 
" Flourishing Spring " from being picked in the full spring- 
time, and is large and loosely made, being prepared from 
the older leaves of each respective picking. It bears the 
same relation to Young Hyson that Imperial does to 
Gunpowder and produces the same characteristics, but 
in a minor degree. 

Young Hyson — Is a corruption of the Chinese term, 
"Yu-tsien," or Early Spring, from being gathered in the 
early spring-time, and in make the leaves are extremely 
small, finely but artistically twisted, almost wirey in tex- 
ture, being prepared from the youngest and tenderest 
leaves of the tea plant. 

Twankay — Or " Hyson-skin," is composed chiefly of 
the largest and oldest leaves of the foregoing varieties 
that cannot, owing to their coarse or broken condition, 
be rolled or converted into the former makes. It is a large, 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 23 



loose and flat-leaf tea, varying in color, liquor and flavor, 
according to the grades from which it is separated. 

Considerable mystery and confusion for a long time 
existed regarding the species of plant yielding the varie- 
ties known as Green and Black teas, many authorities 
claiming that the former was produced from the Green 
tea plant exclusively, and the latter from the Black tea 
plant solely, while again it was held by others that both 
varieties were prepared at pleasure from but one and the 
same species, the mere difference in color, flavor and 
effects being due entirely to a disparity in the soil and 
process of curing. But later and more careful investi- 
gation disprove these particular opinions, as while it is 
now admitted, even by the Chinese themselves, that both 
kinds may be produced at will from either or both species 
of the tea plant, it is a popular error to imagine that 
China produces the two commercial kinds in all districts, 
as the preparation of the greater proportion of the 
respective varieties is carried on in widely separated 
districts of the Empire from corresponding species of 
the tea plant, different methods being adopted only in 
the process of curing the two kinds from the first stage. 
Green teas are prepared and distinguished from Black 
in such instances by the fact that the former are not 
fermented as long or fired as high in the process of 
rolling as the latter. It was also a commonly-received 
opinion at one time that the distinctive color of Green 
teas was imparted to them by being cured and fired in 
copper pans. For this belief, however, there is not the 
slightest foundation in fact, as copper pans are never 
used for the purpose of firing tea, repeated experiments 
and unerring tests having been frequently made by com- 
petent experts, but not even in a single instance has any 
trace of that metal been found in them. 



2 4 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 




(Japan Tea Plant.) 



JiVE»AIV TEAS. 

In color, flavor and character, Japan Teas are totally 
distinct from any and all other varieties of Tea known to 
commerce. They are divided into Panfired, Sundried 
and Basketfired Teas and Nibs, but are frequently con 
verted into Oolongs, Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gun 
powder and Young Hyson makes. 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 




(Curing Tea.) 



Panfired Japan — Is a medium-sized green-leaf Tea, 
well-curled and presenting an unbroken appearance. It 
yields a bright clear liquor which remains unchanged in 
color until quite cold, and possesses a flavor delicate but 
fragrant in odor. The medium grades, however, are 
rougher in make, darker in liquor and duller in flavor, 
while the commoner ones are course and unsightly in 
style, varying in color and somewhat " brassy " or 
metallic in flavor. 

Sundried Japan — Derive their trade-name from 
being dried in the sun before firing, in order to fix their 
color more permanently. The leaf is of an olive-green 
color, small and compactly curled, and the liquor what 



2 6 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



is known as "toasty" in flavor owing to their thorough 
fermentation before firing. The lower grade range from 
a yellowish to a dull-green in color, indifferently made 
and often " fishy " in taste from the use of fish manure in 
cultivating. 

Basketfired Japan — Is so called from being cured 
in baskets over a slow fire. The finer grades are long, 
dark and exceedingly well twisted or curled, clear and 
bright in the infusion and mellow or " mealy " in flavor, 
the latter quality making them a very valuable sort for 
blending with Oolong in the proportions of one part to 
four of Oolong, or almost any variety into which they 
are introduced. 




(Firing Tea.) 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



27 



Japan Nibs — Are composed of the largest and oldest 
(eaves of the foregoing sorts, and bear the same relation 
to Japan Teas that Twankay does to Green Teas. In 
the cheaper and lower-grade blends they make an ex- 
cellent addition by imparting strength and fullness to the 
combination, particularly when separated from the higher 
grades of Japan Teas. 




(Rolling and Curling.) 

Japan Oolongs — Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gun- 
powder and Hysons differ only from the regular Japan 
Teas in make, and from being prepared from the same 
leaf they naturally possess the same general character- 
istics and cup qualities, but are not produced in any 
appreciable quantities. 



28 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 




(Sorting; Tea.) 




I* Sb* 



(India and Ceylon Tea riant.) 

Principally comprise Assams, Cachars, Darjeelings, 
Dooars, Deradoons, Kumaons and Chittagongs, ranking 
n quality in the order named, and are converted into 
Pekoes, Souchongs, Congous and Pekoe-Souchongs 
■esembling most the Congou sorts of China in make, 
»tyle, color and general appearance, but many of them 
jeing produced from a combination of the China and 
[ndia Tea plants are hybrid in character, differing widely 



3° 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



from their originals. In make and style they are in 
general longer and narrower in leaf, better curled and 
more shapely in form than the corresponding Chinese 
varieties, but contain a much greater excess of tannin 
which accounts for their superior strength or rather 
rankness in the infused state. 




(India Tea Plantation.) 



Assams — Are greyish-black in color, the dried leafl* 
of the finer grades being pekoe-tipped and flavored. The 
liquor is unusually strong and pungent in addition to 
being thick and heavy in the cup, but are very useful for 
forming the base or foundation of all blends among' 
Irish, English or Scotch Tea consumers. 

Cachars — Are blacker in color, but not as well made 
or handsome in appearance. The infusion, however, is 
softer and mellower, being occasionally what is known as : 
" fruity " in flavor. 

Darjeeling — Is a hybrid variety, produced from a 
cross between the China and India Tea plants and par- 
takes somewhat of the characteristics of both. But, 
while blacker in leaf, it is not on an average as finely 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 3 1 

nade, and while round and full in body is not as pungent 
>r flavory in the infusion. 

Dooars — Approximate more to Cachars in style, 
:olor and general appearance, and are strong, rough 
,nd coarse in liquor, but pungent and pleasing in flavor, 
>eing a serviceable Tea for blending, as it imparts tone 
.nd character to any combination in it which it may be 
ised. 

Deradoon— Is a high-fired Tea, loosely made and 
leteriorating rapidly, becoming sour or rancid on ex- 
>osure to the atmosphere in a very short time. The 
iquor is frequently "earthy" in taste and somewhat 
.nalogous to that of Ankoi Oolong, for which reasons 
hey are not much sought after. 

Kumaon — Is generally converted into Gunpowder, 
mperial and Hyson Teas, all being prepared from the 
ame leaf, the chief and only difference lying in their 
lake and color, as they still retain all their Indian 
haracteristics of liquor and flavor. 

Chittagong — Is thick, heavy and strong in the cup, 
nd what is termed " nutty " in flavor and are considered 
ood, useful Teas for blending purposes from their great 
trength and positive character. 

India Teas in general possess a sharp acid taste not to 

found in any of the foregoing varieties, and a distinct 
ut peculiar flavor, rarely liked by American Tea consum- 
rs, except when largely tempered with the softer and more 
lellow liquored Teas of China. In order to neutralize or 
ffset this disagreeable peculiarity, it is at all times neccs- 
try to use only the best of the India grades in blending. 

nother very disagreeable feature of India Teas is that of 
le formation of an oily or gummy film which settles on 

p of the liquor after infusion. The loss of flavor and 



3-' 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



rapid decay in exposure is also greater in India Teas than 
in most other varieties. The grades most easily affected 
in this manner being the two highly-fired, light-liquored 
and open-leaf makes. 




CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 33 

Ceylon Teas — Are comparatively new Teas to com- 
merce, and are known to trade as Matagalas, Mandulsu- 
mas, Rakuwanas, Kanda-loyas, Kandapole and Soocan- 
duris, but as with India Teas they are chiefly converted 
into silver and golden Pekoe, Congous, Souchongs and 
Pekoe-Souchongs. Their leaf, liquor and flavor like their 
India prototypes varies greatly in style and quality, 
according to the elevation at which they are grown, 
their uniformity also varying from year to year as in the 
India districts. 

Silver Pekoe — Is a long, whitish, downey-leaf Tea, 
almost " satiny " in texture, with silvery tips at the ends. 
The liquor is dark, reddish in color, but bright and 
sparkling in the cup, delicate and fragrant in flavor for 
this variety but very much overrated in value. 

Golden Pekoe — Is a much smaller leaf Tea, darker 
in color and somewhat silky in texture and liberally 
sprinkled with rich, yellow or orange tips while the 
inferior grades are much darker and heavier in body, but 
fresh, fragrant and greatly appreciated by consumers 
who prefer this variety. 

Pekoe-Souchong — Is chiefly composed of the Pekoe 
leaves that are devoid of tips and Souchong containing 
some tipped leaves, but as a general rule it is an unas- 
sorted Tea prepared from the larger and coarser leaves 
that will not pass through the sieves. It is medium in 
size and choppy in leaf, but ripe and rich in liquor, fairly 
brisk and malty in flavor. 

OE^YJ^OIV CONGOUS AJVJO 
SOUOHOiVOS. 

Closely resemble the corresponding India kinds in 
make, color, liquor and flavor, and make excellent Teas 



34 



CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



for combining in blending, but like the India sorts will 
not keep as long or as well as the China or Japan kinds, 
becoming sour and rancid in a few months, defects 
attributed to the rapid artificial methods of curing 
practiced in these countries. 




CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 



35 



Broken Leaf — India and Ceylon Broken-leaf Teas 
are composed of the old, broken and mutilated leaves 
of the other sorts which are separated in sifting, and 
bear the same relation to these varieties that Twankay 
does to China Green Teas and Nibs to the Japan sorts. 
They vary in color from brown to black, their strength 
being seldom great, though the flavor of the finer grades 
is in general good, drawing and drinking in proportion 
to the grades from which they are separated, while that 
of the commoner kinds is poor, thin and coarse in liquor 
and flavor. 




-Souchong, c — Congou, d— Souchong-Congou. 
(Java Tea Plant.) 



36 CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. 

JAVA TEAS. 

Are known to commerce as Preangers, Krawangs, 
Cheribons, Bagelens and Banjoemas Teas, and are classi- 
fied as Pekoes, Congous, Oolongs and Souchongs, after 
the manner of India and Ceylon Teas. The leaves of the 
different kinds are sorted during the picking, and graded 
according to size, the smallest being converted into 
Pekoe, the medium into Souchong, and the largest into 
Oolongs and Congous. 

Java Teas in general are particularly small in leaf, dull- 
black in color, but rather handsome in general appear- 
ance, and approximating more to the India variety in 
style, color and character, but do not keep as well, be- 
coming rank and sour when allowed to lay too long. 
The liquor of Java Teas is also deficient in strength, body 
and flavor, being almost totally devoid of any distinctive 
aroma or pronounced fragrance, defects attributable 
mainly to their faulty and imperfect methods of curing 
and preparing, as well as to the fact that the leaves are 
picked from the plants all the year round, and allowed 
no time for rest or recuperation, and making very 
indifferent Teas for blending or using alone. 

The last three varieties are generally converted in 
Congous and Souchongs, ranking with and approximat- 
ing to Java Teas in style, color and character. 

African Teas — Are large, black and coarse in leaf 
and liquor, being very bitter and astringent in flavor. 
They make poor Teas for blending purposes. 

Fiji Teas — Like African are coarse in leaf, blackish 
in liquor and almost rank in flavor. 

Singapore Tea — Is also a very inferior grade for 
blending, being too pronounced in character for the 
purpose. 



FART III. 



ART OF TESTING AIVI} 
SEJIvECTINQ TEAS. 

^T'HE Teas of commerce possess two values — an 
II"} intrinsic or real value, and a commercial or 
market value — the former constituting its 
quality, strength and flavor, the latter being more often 
based on its style or appearance, supply and fluctuations 
in price, so that in their selection for commercial pur- 
poses four leading features are to be considered before 
purchasing by the dealer, viz. : Leaf, Liquor, Character 
and Flavor, the drawing and drinking qualities of a Tea 
in the cup being paramount to its style or appearance in 
the hand, as many Teas though course or rough-looking 
in " make " or appearance draw and drink exceedingly 
well in the infusion. 

There are five principal methods of testing and select- 
ing Teas for commercial use, and which may be summed 
up in the following sequence. First by 

»ty:l,:e: or AF»:F»:i3AieA:ivo:E:. 

A good Tea may be readily recognized by its style or 
appearance in the hand, which though not invariably an 
indication of its merit in the cup has considerable to do 
with its quality and value, choice Teas of all kinds being 
handsomely made and pleasing to the eye. They are 
compactly if not artistically curled or rolled according to 
their make, whether Green or Black, and all Teas are 



38 Art of testing and selecting teas. 

fine in proportion to their youth and tenderness, the 
ripest and juiciest curling up tightest and retaining their 
form longest, that is the younger and fresher the leaves 
the richer and more succulent the Tea. While old and 
inferior Teas on the other hand are large, rough and 
loosely made in proportion to their age, quality and 
period of picking, as being partially or totally devoid of 
sap they are correspondingly coarse, astringent or en- 
tirely flavorless in the infused state. By 

i^e;e)IvI2vo or stressing. 

Judging a sample of Tea by feeling or pressing in the 
hand is more applicable to the curled, twisted or Black 
Tea sorts than to the rolled or Green Tea kinds. For 
instance, if the leaves of the former make so tested be 
really choice, they will be found smooth, crisp and elastic 
in the hand and capable of resisting a gentle but firm 
pressure without breaking. But if the leaves be old and 
sapless they will be found tough and chaffy to the touch, 
very brittle, breaking easily and crumbling under the same 
conditions. 

SMEJrvXvXlVO OR IXHAIvING. 

By blowing or breathing heavily upon a sample of Tea 
and then quickly smelling or inhaling the odor omitted 
from it, a very fair estimate of its general character may 
be formed by the dealer. To judge correctly by this 
method, however, an acquaintance with the distinctive 
flavors and peculiarities will be necessary, this knowledge 
being best acquired by the dealer adopting a type or 
standard sample of the Teas he is using or wants to 
match. By 

MASTICATING OR CHEWING. 

An approximate estimate of a Tea may also be formed 
by chewing or masticating the leaves, a good tea being 



ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 39 

easily recognized by the rapid manner in which the leaves 
are dissolved on slight mastication. If the Tea be young 
and the leaves tender, they become quickly reduced to a 
pasty consistency and very juicy, but if old and inferior 
they will be found difficult to chew, tough, and yielding 
little or no sap, according to its age and inferiority. 

IIWPUSI1VG OR DRAWING 

Is, after all is said, the most satisfactory and reliable 
method of testing or appraising a Tea at its true value 
this being the manner adopted by all expert dealers and 
brokers in Tea. For this method a number of small 
cups, scales and a half-dime weight are necessary, to- 
gether with a clean kettle of freshly distilled or filtered 
water, briskly boiling, and poured on the leaves, after 
which they are allowed to infuse from three to five min- 
utes before smelling and tasting. The water used must 
in all cases be as soft and pure as can be obtained, boiled 
briskly and used only at the boiling point, that is, it must 
boil, but not overboil, as if allowed to do so for even a 
few minutes, it will not extract in its entirety the full 
strength or flavor of the Tea. 

As the value of a Tea commercially depends princi- 
pally upon the weight and flavor of the infusion as well 
as in the aroma imparted to it by the volatile oil which 
it contains, so the intrinsic value of a Tea is based prin- 
cipally on the amount of extract which it yields on infu- 
sion in addition to the quantity of the thiene and tannin 
contained therein. Again, the taste for a particular 
variety of Tea being an acquired and not a natural one, 
it follows that persons not accustomed to a certain variety 
or flavor in Tea want that particular kind and will not be 
satisfied with any other even if better or higher-priced. 
This fact being admitted it becomes essential to the suc- 
cess of the Tea dealer to study and learn the tastes and 



40 ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 

preferences of his patrons in order to cater satisfactorily 
to them. To illustrate he may be selling his trade a 
heavy-bodied Amoy Oolong or dark-leaved Foochow 
and suddenly change off to a fine Formosa or Congou. 
In such a case his customers will be very apt to find 
fault with the latter, no matter how fine they may be. It 
therefore becomes essential to the success of the dealer 
to pay particular attention to the quality and standard of 
the Teas he is purchasing, as there is no article which he 
handles that will attract trade or retain it longer than a 
good Tea at a legitimate price, such a Tea creating 
more comment in a district than any other article used 
at table and to such an extent that if the customers once 
loose confidence in either the ability or honesty of the 
dealer in supplying them they will be repelled rather 
than attracted, it being next to impossible to draw them 
back again once they leave through any mistake of the 
dealer in his selection. Poor or badly selected Teas will 
drive more customers away from a store in a week than 
can be made in a year, so that it will not pay the dealer 
to make any serious error in the selection of his Teas, 
such mistake proving fatal to the holding or increasing of 
his Tea trade as well as for other articles. It is therefore 
much better and more profitable in the end to handle 
only good Teas on fair and legitimate margin than to sell 
poor inferior and unsatisfactory Teas at a larger margin 
of profit. 

A dealer with any ambition to increase or even retain 
his Tea trade should no more attempt to handle poor, 
inferior, dusty, musty or damaged Teas than a butcher 
has to sell tainted meats or a baker to give his customers 
sour bread. The offense may not at first seem as objection- 
able, but the final verdict of his customers will be the 
same in each case, and the positive manner in which 



ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 41 

they will eventually manifest their opinion will be to quit 
dealing with him altogether. Good, clean, pure and 
sweet-drawing Teas can always be purchased at a few 
cents per pound above the price of the dusty, musty, 
mousey, woody, herby, grassy, smoky, or sour and trashy 
Teas now flooding the market. So that by the mistaken 
policy of trying to save a few cents per pound extra the 
seed is sown for the final ruin of the dealer himself in 
addition to casting discredit on the use of Tea as an 
article of diet. While on the other hand, if the dealer 
makes a small but necessary sacrifice for the sake of 
future gain and reputation by selling only Tea that is 
Tea, and content himself with a fair but legitimate profit, 
satisfaction will be given to his customers, his Tea trade 
fostered and extended, and the consumption of this most 
important food auxiliary increased throughout the country. 

GRADING OF* TEAS. 

Black Teas, such as Oolongs and Congous, are graded 
as " Firsts," " Seconds," " Thirds," " Fourths " and some 
times " Fifths," denoting the respective pickings and 
grading in the order named. They are usually divided 
into " chops " — quantities bearing the brand or " chop- 
mark " of the grower or packer — and which are again 
sub-divided into " Lines," " Marks " and " Numbers," 
the latter rarely exceeding fifty packages. The term 
" chop " meaning in Chinese " contract," which in the 
Tea trade is applied to a quantity of Tea frequently com- 
posed of the product of different gardens or districts 
and afterwards mixed together and made uniform before 
packing and forwarding to the shipping ports. 

Green Teas are graded as Nos. I, 2, 3 and 4, the 
former being applied to the choicest kinds, No. 2 to 
choice, No. 3 to medium, and 4 to the common grades. 



42 ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 

Japan Teas are usually graded as " Common," 
" Choice," " Extra Choice" and "Choicest." 

India and Ceylon Teas are divided into "Breaks," 
each separate picking being known in trade as a " flush " 
and graded accordingly. Nearly all the India and Ceylon 
Teas are first " bulked; " that is, the whole is run together 
in one heap and thoroughly mixed before being put up 
in the chests, this process having the advantage of 
insuring the regularity of the break or chop. The selec- 
tion of India and Ceylon Teas for blending purposes is 
much more difficult than that of China and Japan Teas, 
greater care being required to avoid Teas that will not 
keep well as well as those which may possess any other 
objectionable peculiarity. The loss of strength and flavor 
is also much greater in some grades than in others, the 
kinds most affected being the too highly-fired Teas, the 
light-flavored Teas and those that possess a loose, rough 
or open leaf. 

whb:3v to buy teja®. 

The Tea market fluctuating considerably, sometimes 
it will be necessary for the dealer to learn to under- 
stand something of the law of supply and demand, 
which, to a great extent, affects the fluctuations of the 
Tea market, before he can be sure of making desirable 
purchases. The dealer in Tea who not only understands 
the article he is dealing in, but whose knowledge and 
judgment enable him, in addition, to make his purchases 
about the proper time, possesses many advantages over 
his competitors, the value- of which cannot be overesti- 
mated. For instance, each season, on the arrival of the 
first steamers from China and Japan, high prices rule for 
the earliest pickings, and if the market be bare of chance 
lots, these full prices are continued for some time there- 
after. Then follows a dull, drooping market, from which 



ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 43 

the dealer derives no satisfaction, but should the demand 
at first be high and the stocks large, through dealers de- 
clining to purchase at full figures, prices rapidly decline 
to a more reasonable level, after which they then con- 
tinue comparatively steady for the balance of the year, 
unless some outside causes should arise to create an 
advance. For these reasons dealers would do well to 
take advantage of the fine selections of Teas that arrive 
during July, August and September from China and 
Japan. In the purchase of India and Ceylon Teas it 
will also be found necessary to watch the new arrivals 
closely, as, after the heavy receipts during October and 
November, the market is nearly always easier, but when 
the arrivals are light the market is much higher. These 
facts are worth the special attention of dealers, as India 
and Ceylon Teas, although until quite recently com- 
paratively unknown, now form some of the principal 
kinds for blending purposes. 

With the great reduction in the importation prices and 
the keener competition among dealers, the retail prices 
of Tea have been brought down to a very low figure, 
and as dealers generally have educated the public to the 
the purchase of poor and trashy Teas at low prices, it is 
not probable that the retail prices will ever again reach 
any higher figures, unless war or other similar cause 
should lead to a duty being placed upon the commodity. 
Yet notwithstanding these unprecedented low prices, the 
per capita consumption of Tea is comparatively very 
small in this country at the present time. One of the 
chief causes of this small consumption is directly trace- 
able to the custom now prevalent among retail dealers 
of charging exorbitant profits on inferior Teas in order 
to make up for losses sustained on other goods, together 
with the forcing of poor Teas on their customers. These 



44 ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS. 

unwise and impolitic practices might be overlooked were 
it not for the greater mistake made ot sacrificing quality 
to profit, which in an article of daily and almost universal 
use like Tea, is an important consideration, so that by 
rectifying this error and giving more attention to the 
careful selection of his Teas by the dealer, there is no 
valid reason why the consumption of the article could 
not be at least doubled in a short time in this country. 



X^VRT IV. 



ADUIyTEjRATIOX AIVr> 
DEJTEJCTIOX. 



^^HE Teas of commerce are subject to three princi- 
I 1"^ pal forms of adulteration, viz. : Facing or coloring 
with deleterious compounds in order to enhance 
their appearance, mixing with spurious and spent or 
once used leaves, with the object of increasing their bulk, 
and sanding or adulterating with mineral matter to add 
to their weight. But it is against the two first most 
commonly dangerous forms of adulteration that the 
principal efforts of dealers and Tea inspectors should 
more particularly be directed, the latter having received 
some attention from analysts and chemists, but not to 
that extent which the importance of the subject merits. 

Of the various forms of adulteration practiced in 
China and Japan, the facing or artificial coloring of low- 
grade Green Teas is perhaps the most prevalent and 
glaring, the material used for the purpose being usually 
composed of Prussian blue, China clay, gypsum, tur- 
meric and indigo. 

The process of coloring Green Teas is performed by 
placing a portion of the Prussian blue in a large bowl 
and crushing it into a fine powder, a small quantity of 
gypsum is then added, and the two substances ground 
and mixed together in the proportions of one part blue 
to four parts of the gypsum, both making in combination 



46 ADULTERATION AND DETECTION. 

a light blue preparation, in which state it is applied to the 
leaves during the last process of firing. One ounce of 
this coloring matter will face or color from fifteen to 
twenty pounds of Tea leaves, imparting to them a dull 
leaden-blue color and a greasy appearance readily de- 
tected in the hand. 

When Green or Japan Teas are heavily coated in this 
manner it maybe readily recognized by their heavy leaden- 
blue color and oily or greasy appearance in the hand ; or, 
better still, by placing a small sample of the leaves on a 
piece of glass and allowing them to rest there for some 
minutes, then on removing them the coloring matter, if 
any, will be found adhering to the glass, and its nature, 
whether Prussian blue, indigo or soapstone, detected by 
the aid of a small microscope. But when only lightly 
colored the best method is to put the leaves in a cup or 
glass and pour boiling water on them, stirring them up 
well meantime and then straining the infusion through 
a thin muslin cloth, and the coloring matter will be 
found deposited in the cloth or forming a sediment at 
the bottom or sides of the vessel into which they are 
strained. 

What are known to trade as " Made Teas," that is, 
Teas artificially manufactured from leaves onced used, or 
tea dust, and a preparation of gum or glue to hold them 
together, and then colored and glazed to give them a 
pleasing appearance to the eye, are best detected by 
crushing the so-called leaves between the fingers or 
hands upon which they leave a yellowish stain, greasy 
in nature if spurious leaves. Or again, by pulverizing a 
small quantity of the alleged Tea leaves, and putting 
them in a cup or glass and pouring on boiling water, 
they will immediately begin to disintegrate and form a 
thick, gluey deposit at the bottom of the vessel, pasty in 



ADULTERATION AND DETECTION. 47 



nature, the coloring matter adhering to the bottom or 
sides of the cup or glass. 

Another form of adulteration practiced principally in 
China is the admixture of spurious or foreign leaves 
obtained from other plants, such as the willow, plum, ash, 
and what is known in trade as Ankoi Tea. Millions of 
pounds of such spurious Tea leaves are annually picked, 
cured and colored in the same manner as Tea in some of 
the Chinese Tea districts, and used for the purpose of 
increasing the bulk and decreasing the cost of genuine 
Teas , this form of adulteration, however, being only 
trivial when compared with the former one. Such spuri- 
ous or foreign leaves in a Tea are best detected by their 
botanical character, that is, by the absence of the special 
structural marks, which distinguish the genuine Tea 
leaf from that of the leaves from all other plants in the 
vegetable kingdom, for while it is admitted that the Tea 
leaf bears a strong resemblance to those of the willow, plum 
and ash, it varies materially, however, in size, form and 
structure from them, the border of the true Tea leaf being 
more regularly serrated, the serrations stopping just 
short of the stalk, and the venations are very character- 
istic in the genuine Tea leaf, the veins running out from 
the mid-rib almost parallel with each other, but altering 
their course before the border of the leaf is reached and 
turning so as to leave a bare space just under it. So that 
in making an examination of a sample of Tea for the pur- 
pose of ascertaining whether these distinctive charac- 
teristics are present in the leaves, it will be found best to 
pour boiling water on to soften and uncurl them, and 
spread them out more easily on the glass as per the fol- 
lowing diagrams : — 



48 



ADULTERATION AND DETECTION. 




(True Chinese Tea-Leaf.) 




(True Japanese Tea-Leaf.) 




(True Ceylon Tea-Leaf.) 



^v#6??*<$S 




(True India Tea-Leaf. ) 



ADULTERATION AND DETECTION. 49 

But in order to better detect the presence of spurious 
leaves in Tea, a better knowledge of the botanical forma- 
tion of the true Tea leaf will be requisite, as Tea leaves 
in general bear a very strong resemblance to those of 
the willow, plum and ash, but vary widely in size and 
texture, being much smaller and more deeply serrated. 

When infused and unfolded, the true or genuine Tea 
leaf is of a lighter-green color, the looping of the prin- 
cipal veinings being also very characteristic, while the 
spurious leaves are of a dark greenish-yellow color and 
very irregular in form when examined under the same 
conditions. 

Sand and other mineral substances, such as iron and 
steel filings, are also frequently introduced into Tea 
with the object of adding to its weight, and are easiest 
detected by powdering a small quantity of the leaves and 
spreading the powder out on a piece of glass and then 
applying an ordinary magnet to the dust, so that if a 
quantity of the particles gravitate and adhere to the 
magnet the Tea is undoubtedly adulterated in this form. 

All adulterations and fabrications in general, however, 
may be best detected by the following simple but effect- 
ual method : By putting a small sample of the Tea 
leaves in a wine-glass or thin goblet and pouring in 
clear cold water on them, and then stirring up or shaking 
well for a few minutes so that the Tea, if pure, will only 
slightly color the water, but if adulterated in any form a 
dark, muddy-looking liquor is quickly yielded, which, if 
next boiled and allowed to stand until cold, will, if 
spurious leaves are contained, become very bitter to the 
taste and almost transparent as it cools, while if the 
sample is composed of pure Tea only, it will be dark in 
color and pleasing in flavor under the same conditions. 



:f»a:r^ v. 



AKT OF :BIvEJJVI>IPifO OTE^^VIS, 



yT'HE primary object and fundamental principle of 
11} successful and profitable Tea blending should be 
to obtain in a consolidated form what is known 
as harmony of combination, that is, strength, pungency, 
flavor and piquancy in the infusion, and at the same 
time to accomplish this result with the smallest possible 
outlay. In order to secure this end three important 
rules must be carefully followed : (i.) To learn the taste 
of the consumer. (2.) To ascertain what Teas will com- 
bine best to suit this taste, and (3.) To find out to what 
extent the component parts of a once-adopted and satis- 
factory blend may be varied in case of any difficulty to 
secure the same kind or grade of Teas for future use. 
These essential objects can be best attained only by the 
oroper selecting, weighing and arranging of the propor- 
tionate qualities and quantities of the different varieties 
md grades of Tea in such a manner as to secure the 
jest results with as little variation as possible, so that 
before proceeding to produce a specific blend or combi- 
lation the dealer must consider well the descriptions of 
fea that will amalgamate most satisfactorily as well as 
hose that will not unite harmoniously, as Teas that are 
tot improved by combination are certain to be deteriorated 
n blending. 



52 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

The whole art in successful Tea blending being to 
combine body and pungency with some particular and 
distinct flavor in one in order to please a majority of that 
portion of the public for whom the Tea is specially pre- 
pared, and at the same time to arrange its constituent 
parts in such a manner that this most desirable result 
may be accomplished at a moderate cost to the dealer 
than that of any single higher-priced variety, and again 
to learn how far the component parts may be varied 
without seriously affecting its regularity, so that advantage 
may be taken of the cheapness of any necessary variety 
or grade in market during the season. But it must be 
understood at the outset that all combinations of Tea, as a 
rule, must depend upon the general character, grade 
and flavor of the Tea most in demand in the particular j 
section or district for which they are intended that 
special variety or grade forming the base or foundation 
of the blends prepared for it; that is, it must dominate 
the combinations. As, for instance, where Oolongs area 
most in demand the blend must consist of from one-half 
to two-thirds of that variety, and so on with Congous, 
Japans, India and Ceylon Teas, as the case may be. 



Uniformity of quality and flavor in Tea can only be 
secured by intelligent and skillful blending, so that the 
advantages to be gained by the mixing of several varie- 
ties and grades of Tea together is so apparent that it 
needs no arguments to sustain them. But as only the 
most expensive Teas possess in any marked degree the 
best all-round qualities which go to make a thoroughly 
satisfactory beverage when used alone, it is only by in- 
telligent blending that this most desirable result can be 
obtained at a moderate cost to the dealer. Again it is 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 53 

the dealer who understands the art of blending his Teas 
successfully who will invariably lead his competitors in 
the Tea-trade. 

The taste for any particular-flavored Tea being an 
acquired and not a natural one, it necessarily follows 
that those consumers who have been accustomed to a 
certain flavor invariably want that particular flavor again, 
and so will be displeased with any other Tea that does 
not possess it, although it may be much higher priced 
and better in every way. Users of wine and other bev- 
erages have their likes and dislikes, one preferring a light 
or mild and another a strong or bitter taste, and so it is 
with most Tea drinkers when once they have acquired a 
preference for some particular-flavored Tea. This being 
a well-established fact among the Tea trade, it becomes 
essential for the successful Tea blender to study and 
learn what particular variety, grade or flavor of Tea his 
patrons have been accustomed to before attempting to 
cater to it, as not only is there a more divergence in the 
taste for Teas in the different parts of the country, but in 
cities, towns and even in localities the specific flavors in 
demand are so numerous and various that most of the 
leading Tea dealers have been enabled to mark out a dis- 
tinct trade for themselves. In large cities this is a very 
wise and desirable policy to pursue, providing the blend 
or blends adopted and found satisfactory are kept uni- 
form and regular thereafter, as it secures the return again 
and again of the same customer to the dealer, and thus 
keeps his Tea business not only steady but progressive. 
Even away from the large cities it is well to bear the 
importance of this policy in mind, but while at the begin- 
ning it may be found more advisable to keep fairly close 
to the established taste of the town or locality, a gradual 



54 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

change by the introduction of some special combination 
may be found the best course to pursue. 



With regard to the best Teas for blending purposes, 
before proceeding to the study or preparation of any 
specific formulas, it will be well for the dealer to consider 
the varieties and grades of Tea that will not blend satis- 
factorily as well as those that will assimilate successfully 
with each other. In this case it is much easier to de- 
scribe the negative side first, as Teas that will not be 
improved are certain to be injured by blending. One 
of the best rules to act upon as a guide to successful 
Tea blending is not to allow unclean or damaged Teas 
— even in the smallest quantities — to be introduced into 
any blend. This rule should be as ridgidly adhered 
to in the common or low-priced blends as in the choice 
or high-grade ones, because never for a moment should 
it be forgotten by the dealer that if not improved Teas 
are certain to be deteriorated by blending, particularly 
by the introduction of inferior Teas. For this reason it 
may be well for him to consider the grade of Tea that 
will combine satisfactorily as well as that will not as- 
similate successfully with each other, as even though all 
the other Teas composing a blend be well selected and 
well arranged, the presence of a single damaged or in- 
ferior Tea will be found to taste through it. 



All Ankois and Amoy Oolongs described by the trade 
as " herby " or " weedy," and sometimes as " woody " 
Teas, should be rejected altogether, as should ever so 
small a quantity of these weedy Ankois be introduced 
into a blend the entire combination will be irretrievably 
spoiled. All " dusty," " musty," " stetnmy," tainted or 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 55 

otherwise damaged Foochow and Formosa Oolongs 
should also be avoided by the successful Tea-blender, 
as they will be certain to permeate and destroy any 
combination into which they are introduced, no matter 
how small the quantity. And all " musty," " mousey," 
" minty," and " stemmy " Congou and Souchong Teas, 
as well as all artificially-made and spurious Scented 
Teas, must also be shunned. 



All Pingsuey, Canton, artificially-colored, and what 
are known in trade as Country Green Teas, should be 
tabooed altogether, as they invariably detract from any 
blend in which they may be used. If cheap Green Teas 
must be had for blending, the surest policy is to select a 
:rue Moyune Hyson or Twankay of low grade for the 
purpose, as the commonest kinds of the latter will give 
fetter satisfaction in any combination of Teas than the 
finest of the former sorts. And all artificially-colored 
Japan Teas, as well as all those of a " fishy," "brassy" 
or metallic flavor must be avoided in blending, as they, 
po, destroy the good qualities of the finer Teas forming 
[he blend. And all old, sour or otherwise tainted India, 
(Ceylon and Java Teas in particular, should not, under any 

ircumstances, be handled by the would-be successful Tea 
iilender, as there is neither profit in them for the dealer 
Ir satisfaction to the consumer. In brief, select only 

ood, clean sweet-drawing Teas for all blending purposes, 

s it pays best in the end. 



The chief characteristics which distinguish fine Teas 
lay be summed up in the following sequence, viz. : 
hoice Amoy Oolongs are " full-bodied and toasty " in 
iavor. Foochows are " rich and mellow." Formosas 



56 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

are "fragrant and aromatic." Fine Green Teas are 
" sparkling and pungent in liquor," while Congous are 
" fruity " in flavor and Souchongs are slightly " tarry." 
Choice Japans of all makes are light in draw and what is 
known as " mealy " in flavor, while Indias are what is 
known as " malty " and Ceylons " toasty." Scented Teas 
are " piquant " and possess what is technically termed a 
"bouquet," but all Java Teas usually turn sour or rancid 
in a very brief time after being once opened and exposed 
to the atmosphere. 



Formula No. 1. 

For a low-priced Tea suitable for restaurant and gen- 
eral trade where a cheap, heavy -bodied and strong- 
flavored liquor is the main consideration : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Ning-chow Congou @ .14 

10 Amoy Oolong @ .12 

Average cost 13 m 

In the Oolong, which forms the base of this blend, as 
little coarseness may be tolerated, but"herby" and: 
" weedy " Teas must be avoided, as what pungency iss 
required is supplied by the Congou, which must, how- 
ever, be free from any suspicion of oldness or staleness, 
and if not sufficiently heavy, the addition of one part of 
Broken-leaf Assam will supply this defect. 



No. %. 

Another low-priced blend is composed as follows :- 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Oonfa Congou @ .20 

8 Mohea Oolong @ .16 

Average cost i6j£ 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



5 7 



No. 3. 

For a low-priced to a fair grade Tea-blend the following 
combination has been found satisfactory in a mining or 
manufacturing district, where a full, heavy, substantial 
Tea is required : — ■ 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Moning Congou @ .20 

2 Amoy Oolong @ .20 

7 Foochow Oolong @ .20 

Average cost 20 

This combination yields a dark-colored, heavy-bodied, 
" grippy " beverage, one that will stand a second drawing 
and still be strong and flavory. 



No. 4. 

Intended for same class of trade if former should not 
adequately please : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Foochow Oolong @, .18 

2 Kaiso w Congou @ .20 

10 Ning-yong Oolong @ .16 

Average cost 19 

The Ning-yong in this combination should be clean 
and as sweet-drawing as can be had for the price, and 
the Congou as high-toasted as possible. If not suffi- 
ciently heavy or pungent, the addition of one pound 
Broken-leaf Assam will improve it in this respect won- 
derfully. 



No. 5. 

For a fair to medium blend, a combination like the fol- 
lowing will be found to give almost universal satisfaction 
in any locality where a full-ripe round liquor and high 
flavor is in demand : — 



58 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Ning-chow Congou @ .30 

2 Foochow Oolong @ .24 

2 Formosa Oolong @, .24 

Average cost 24 # 

The Foochow Oolong in this combination while 
possessing a full body is not sufficiently flavory to tone-up 
the combination, the Formosa Oolong is added for this 
purpose, the Congou giving character to the whole. 



No. 6. 

To obtain a grippy Tea, one that will stand a second 
drawing and still possess sufficient body and flavor to 
please, the following is suggested : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Foochow Oolong @ .15 

3 Formosa Oolong @ .20 

5 Kaisow Congou @ .24 

Average cost 21 



No. 7. 

A blend similiar to the following will be found to give 
very general satisfaction at all times and in all sections, 
being full rich, and strong, yet withal smooth and pleasing 
to the average taste and entirely dissimilar to any single 
variety in common use : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Moning Congou @ .30 

1 Basket-fired Japan @ .30 

8 Formosa Oolong @ .30 

Average cost 30 

A fair Nankin Moyune Tea may be substituted for the 
Japan when Green Tea is required in the combination, or, 
better still, added to it in such cases. 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 59 

No. 8. 

A very serviceable Tea that will yield a rich, heavy- 
bodied pungent liquor, much admired by Irish or Eng- 
lish tea consumers, is composed as follows : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

3 Formosa Oolong @ .30 

3 Pekoe-tipped Assam @ .30 

Average cost 30 

In this combination the Assam is introduced to add 
strength to the piquancy of the Formosa, both forming 
a full-bodied, fragrant Tea in conjunction. 



No. 9. 

The appended blend yields a clear, strong, bright in- 
fusion, rich and fragrant in flavor and pleasing in aroma, 
for those who desire an all-black Tea. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Assam Pekoe @ .30 

3 Basket-fired Japan @ .24 

5 Formosa Oolong @ .30 

10 Foochow Oolong @ .26 

Average cost 27 

The Oolongs in this combination lack body and 
pungency, which the addition of the Assam imparts, the 
Japan giving the necessary fragrance. 



The following blend has been found to give almost 
universal satisfaction in a neighborhood composed 
chiefly of a working class and to Tea drinkers generally, 
costing much less than any single variety possessing the 
same cup qualities : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

5 Foochow Oolong @ .20 

5 Sun-dried Japan @ .20 

S Assam Souchong @ .20 

Average cost 20 



60 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

No. 11. 

If the trade be a professional one, a blend like the 
following will be found to suit the most fastidious 
taste : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Moyune Young Hyson @, .40 

4 Choice Foochow Oolong @, .40 

5 Choice Formosa Oolong @, .40 

Average cost 40 



No. 12. 

When a particularly rich, full-bodied aromatic-flavored 
Tea is required to please a taste otherwise difficult to 
suit, the appended formula is recommended. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Chociest Foochow Oolong @ 

3 Choicest Ceylon Pekoe @ 

5 Choicest Formosa Oolong @ 



Average cost. 



No 13. 

Another combination like the following that is unique 
in itself, the flavor being unlike that of any single variety 
grown. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

5 Basket-fired Japan @ 

10 Foochow Oolong @, 

10 Moyune Young Hyson @ 

Average cost 

But if still not of sufficient strength, add one part of 
fine Moning or Kaisow Congou to tone it up. 



No. 14. 

The three most satisfactory and attractive blends in 
Black Teas, however, are composed as follows, which 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 6 1 

may be divided into Choice, Extra Choice and Choicest, 
and are warranted to suit any taste or section of the 
country, in addition to the fact that the dealer need 
not carry too many kinds for their preparation. 



No. 15. 
CHOICE. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Kaisow Congou @ .30 

8 Foochow Oolong @ .30 

Average cost 30 



No. 16. 
EXTRA CHOICE. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Moning Congou @ .35 

2 Basket-fired Japan @ .35 

6 Foochow Oolong @ .35 

Average cost, 35 






No. 17. 
CHOICEST. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Fine Ning-chow Congou @ .40 

2 Fine Basket-fired Japan @ .40 

6 Fine Formosa Oolong @ .40 

Average cost, , 40 



Ning-chow is one of the best of the Moning Congou 
Teas for blending purposes ; the finer grades being 
Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The dried leaf is small, 
evenly curled and grayish-black in color, while the 
infused leaf is of a bright-brown color with a tendency 
to red in the cup. The liquor is rich, ripe and full in 
body, and the flavor is more delicate and aromatic than 
that of any of the other varieties of Congou Tea. The 



62 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



medium and lower grades will also be found very useful 
to the dealer, as they are heavy and strong in liquor, com- 
bining advantageously with most of the other Teas and 
keeping as a general rule much better. 



To these may be added the following combinations. 

No. 18. 
FINE. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Choice Assam Pekoe @ 

5 Choice Foochow Oolong @ 

Average cost 

No. 19. 
EXTRA FINE. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Ceylon Golden Pekoe @ 

5 Choice Formosa Oolong @ 

Average cost 

No. 20. 
FINEST. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

5 Choicest Foochow Oolong @ 

5 Choicest Formosa Oolong @ 

Average cost 

In the general run of trade these grades are unmatch- 
able at any price, and may be termed the perfection of 
Tea at their respective prices, suiting any and all tastes. 

gre;:e}:iv tea bi^eivjds. 

In Green Tea blends the combinations are limited, being 
chiefly confined to. 

No. I. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

3 Sun-dried Japan @ .20 

3 Moyune Young Hyson @ .24 

Average cost, 22 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 6$ 



No. 2. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

3 Pan-fired Japan @ .20 

7 Moyune Imperial @ .30 

Average cost, 27 



No. 3. 

And for a very low-priced Tea of this order the best 
results are obtainable from a combination composed of. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

5 Japan Nibs @ .15 

5 Moyune Hyson (aj. .15 

Average cost, 15 

In this latter blend, if the Hyson is scarce and difficult 
to secure, a good, clean, sweet-drawing Twankay or 
Hyson-skin will answer the purpose. 



No. 4. 

Two other good combinations are formed as follows 
when an all Imperial and all Young Hyson is required : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Moyune Imperial @ 



2 Tienke Imperial. 

6 Taiping Imperial. 



Average cost . 



No. 5. 

Parts. Varieties. 

2 Nankin Young Hyson . 

2 Tienke Young Hyson.. 

6 Fy-chow Young Hyson . 



Average cost. 



Green and Black Tea blends are mostly composed of 
tarts Oolongs and Imperials, the other varieties, such as 



64 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

Congous, Souchongs, India and Cey Ions, being considered 
as entirely too strong in combination with the already 
pungent Green Teas. 

No. 1. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Moyune Imperal @ .18 

4 Amoy Oolong @ .15 

Average cost 1 5 >£ 



No. 2. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Choice Moyune Imperial @ .30 

8 Choice Foochow Oolong @ .28 

Average cost 28 J^ 



No. 3. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Moyune Young Hyson @ .30 

4 Choice Formosa Oolong @, .30 

Average cost 30 



No. 4. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Moyune Young Hyson @, .40 

4 Choicest Foochow Oolong @ .40 

4 Choicest Formosa Oolong @ .40 

Average cost 40 



No. 5. 

Is a combination that is considered quite unique 
itself by many Tea-drinkers. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

5 Sun-dried Japan @ 

10 Moyune Young Hyson @ 

10 Choice Foochow Oolong @ 

Average cost 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 65 

In China Green Teas Moyunes will be found the most 
valuable and satisfactory for all blending purposes, the 
finer grades particularly yielding a rich straw-colored 
liquor, very delicate and aromatic in flavor, and at the 
same time possessing a pungency somewhat resembling 
that of a choice Formosa Oolong in character. 



CHINA AND JAPAN TBA BLrENDS. 

The following blends cannot be surpassed or even 
matched in strength and flavor by any tea of either kind 
when used alone : — 

No. 1, 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

1 Ning-chow Congou @ 

2 Basket-fired Japan @, 

5 Foochow Oolong @ 

5 Formosa Oolong @ 



Average cost . 



No. 2. 

The appended formula makes a splendid cup of Tea for 
such consumers as may desire an all black blend : — 

Parts. Varieties . Price. 

I Moning Congou @ 

1 Basket-fired Japan @ 

8 Formosa Oolong @, 



Average cost . 



A blend like the following will be found to give very 
general satisfaction, being rich, full and strong, yet 
piquant and pleasing and entirely foreign to any other 
Tea in general use : — 



66 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



Varieties. Price. 

.Pan-fired Japan @ 

. Moyune Imperial @ 



6 Formosa Oolong. 

Average cost 



No. 4. 

Parts. Varieties. 

2 Sun-dried Japan 

2 Basket-fired Japan , 

6 Foochow Oolong. . . 



Average cost. 



No. 5. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Moning Congou (3} 

i Basket-fired Japan @ 

i Moyune Imperial @ 

3 Foochow Oolong @ 

4 Formosa Oolong @ 

Average cost 

In addition to these a blend composed of equal parts 
of a medium grade Pan-fired Japan and a plain dark- 
drawing Foochow Oolong forms an excellent combina- 
tion at a moderate price. And a fair Pakeong Young 
Hyson and a choice Sun-dried Japan yields an excellent 
liquor for those desiring an all Green Tea blend. 



IIVI3IA. A:iV13 OHIJVA. TEA BI^Ei^D®. 

In the appended combinations only from three to four 
component parts are given for each blend, as the dealer 
should not attempt to mix more of these sorts until he 
has become thoroughly acquainted with their peculiari- 
ties or educated his trade up to their use: — 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 67 

No. 1. 

Intended for a very low-priced tea. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Common Moning Congou @ .15 

2 Common Kaisow Congou @ .15 

2 Broken-leaf Assam @ .15 

Average cost 15 

This is a good combination where the water is hard, 
as it is in many sections of the country, the sweetness 
of the Moning and briskness of the Kaisow being 
unequalled for all low-priced blends. 



No. 2 

Is another excellent combination, answering the same 
purpose : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Saryune Congou @ 



1 Paklin Congou @ 

3 Assam Congou @ 



Average cost. 



Strength not appearance should be the test of the 
Teas forming this blend, and if Assam Souchong is 
cheaper it may be used to better advantage. 



Is composed of 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

1 Suey-kut Congou @ 

1 Lapsing Souchong @ 

3 Rough Pungent Assam @ 

Average cost 

A fine Kintuck or Kiukiang Congou may be used 
with equal advantage in this blend if the Suey-kut is 
difficult to obtain. 



68 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



No. 4. 

Parts. Varieties. 

i Paklin Congou , 

2 Ning-chow Congou . . . 

2 Darjeeling Souchong . 



Average cost . 



The chief feature of this combination is its delicacy of 
flavor, the Paklin imparting a deep rich color to the 
liquor, the Ning-chow enriching the flavor, and the 
Darjeeling adding weight and strength to the entire blend. 



No. 5 

Makes a very good medium-priced Tea, one nearly 
always sure of appreciation among a foreign population : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Fruity Moning Congou @ 

i Souchong-flavored Kaisow @ 

3 . .' Pungent Cachar Souchong @ 



Average cost . 



The latter must be strong and grippy in order to give 
strength and fullness to the other component parts of 
this combination. 



In the blending of India Teas alone the best results 
are obtained from a combination of equal parts of the 
Assam, Cachar and Darjeeling sorts, a good plan being 
to mix three to five of these Teas together A leading 
and popular blend is composed of a strong, thick 
Assam, a brisk and pungent Cachar, with a ripe, juicy 
Deradoon and a fine flavored Darjeeling or soft char- 
acter Kangra to impart a distinctive feature to the com- 
bination. 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 69 



IJVDIA, CHINA AIVD JAPAN ^BLrEJIVIXS. 

In the blending of India, China and Japan Teas the 
dealer must use extreme caution, as the combining of 
these varieties is comparatively a new departure among 
American Tea consumers. 

No. 1. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Assam Pekoe @ 

1 Formosa Oolong @ 

3 Basket-fired Japan @ 

10 Foochow Oolong @ 



Average cost . 



No. 2. 
Parts. Varieties. 



5 Assam Souchong @ 

5 Foochow Oolong @ 

5 Sun-dried Japan @ 



Average cost . 



No. 3. 

Parts. Varieties. 

i Moning Congou . 

2 Assam Souchong . 

7 Foochow Oolong. 



Average cost . 



No. 4. 

The annexed combination has proven to be a very- 
popular Tea in many sections of Philadelphia and 
vicinity : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

1 Pan-fired Japan @ 

1 Moyune Imperial @ 

1 Choice Assam @ 

6 Formosa Oolong @ 

Average cost 



fO ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

No. 5. 
Parts. Varieties. 

I Broken-leaf Assam 

2 Kaisow Congou 

10 Ning-yong Oolong 



Average cost 

In this latter combination both the Ning-yong and 
Kaisow Congou must be clean ; that is, as free from dust 
as possible at the price, and fairly heavy in body. The 
Assam being added to impart tone, character and flavor 
to the whole, it should be fresh and strong, and while a 
little coarseness may be tolerated in it, an earthy-flavored 
one must be avoided. 



I3VX>ia. ajvjo cbyx^cxiv blends. 

The blending of India and Ceylon Teas is chiefly con- 
fined to equal parts of each. The lower grades being 
generally composed of Broken-leaf and Fannings. 

No. 1. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Ceylon Pekoe @ 

8 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @ 

Average cost 



No. a. 

An excellent blend of these varities is composed of 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

5 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @ 

5 Ceylon Pekoe-Souchong @ 

Average cost 

This combination will please the most fastidious 
drinkers of these Teas. 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



No. 3. 

Makes a very pleasing Tea for consumers who prefer 
these growths to any other. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Ceylon Silver-Pekoe @ 

2 Ceylon Golden-Pekoe @ 

6 India Pekoe-Souchong @ 

Average cost 

Broken-leaf India and Ceylon Teas are especially 
useful for all blending purposes, and a judicious use of 
these grades — of say two parts to ten of the other kinds — 
will often give the dealer an advantage of from four to 
six cents per pound in addition to greatly improving the 
blend, more particularly when the other Teas are leafy 
and free from dust. But all low-grade India and Ceylon 
Teas that possess a burnt, baked, sour or raw flavor, 
must be avoided. 



iivr>iA., china aiv:i> oj3y:l,ojv bi^bjnd®. 

In all combinations of India, Ceylon and China Teas 
the average quantity of the former kinds used should be 
from one-fifth to one-sixth. 

No. 1. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Ceylon Souchong @ 

i Assam Souchong @ 

5 China Souchong @ 



Average cost. 



No 2. 

A blend like the following will be found to yield a 
strong, rich and fragrant infusion for customers desiring 
Ceylon and India Teas : — 



7 2 ART OF* BLENDING TEAS. 



Parts. Va 

i Assam Pekoe 

I Choice Ceylon Souchong . 

5 Choice Formosa Oolong. . 



Average cost. 



No. 3. 

But if a rich, heavy-bodied and aromatic Tea is re- 
quired to please a taste difficult to suit, the appended 
formula is recommended : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 Ceylon Pekoe @ 

2 Assam Souchong @ 

6 Foochow Oolong @ 

Average cost 

The Oolong used in this formula must possess pun- 
gency and high-flavor, the addition of the Ceylon impart- 
ing a " toastiness," the Assam furnishing " maltiness " 
and strength to the entire combination. 



For a very cheap Tea a low-priced Mohea Oolong and 
Broken-leaf Assam, both costing about 15 cents, and 
blended in equal proportions, cannot be excelled by any 
single Tea at 30 cents when used alone. This combina- 
tion gives better satisfaction to Tea-drinkers of this grade 
and costs much less. 

SOESBffTEJI* TEA :BIvBJIVr>«S. 

Among English and Scotch Tea consumers Scented 
Teas are used very largely in nearly all combinations, 
and more especially in those of the lower-priced blends; 
but where this is done it is always best to use only 
Moning Congous for the foundation Tea of the blend, 
as Scented Teas combine far better with Monings than 
with Kaisows. One of the most common errors in 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 73 

Tea blending, however, is that a certain large portion 
of Scented Teas, when combined with any other variety 
— no matter how flat, rough or astringent the latter may 
be — will make a blend not only palatable but pleasing. 
This is an illusion, as Scented Teas of themselves can- 
not master or overpower commonness or supply lack of 
strength to any Tea or Teas which does not already 
possess it. But while it is admitted that a small quan- 
tity may improve any blend, if too freely or injudi- 
ciously used it will make the combination thin, and, in 
addition, unless the Scented Tea has been well selected, 
the blend will probably taste heavy in the cup. When 
Scented Caper is used too freely in a blend special care 
must be taken to obtain a very heavy-bodied Tea for the 
foundation, it being best to add thick-liquoring Indias, as 
otherwise a too plentiful use of Caper will make the in- 
fusion thin and bitter. 



No. 1. 

For use only in Scented Tea districts or among Irish, 
English and Scotch Tea consumers. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Moning Congou @ 

1 Assam Souchong @ 

1 Scented Caper @ 

Average cost 

Should this combination be too light in draw, two 
pounds or parts of the Congou may be used or the 
Assam increased half a pound or part. 



No. 2. 

Parts. Varieties. 

]i Scented Flowery Pekoe @ 

1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @ 

4 Saryune Congou @ 

Average cost 



74 ART O p BLENDING TEAS. 

In this combination the Assam must be strong and 
pungent and the Congou selected for its sweetness and 
briskness, and both free from coarseness and should be 
neither thin or sour. 



No. 3. 

Parts. Varieties. 

% Scented Orange Pekoe. 

I Padrae Souchong , 

2 Assam Souchong , 

2 Moning Souchong 



Average cost 

This combination is of great strength and intended 
only for those who prefer a heavy dark-liquored Tea, 
as it is much too strong to please the average taste. 



No. 4. 

The following combinations are very popular among 
English Tea consumers in this country, and will be found 
to suit the average taste for scented Tea-blends. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Formosa Oolong @ 

i Orange Pekoe @ 

2 Assam Pekoe @ 

2 China Souchong @ 

4 Kaisow Congou (a} 

6 Moning Congou @ 

Average cost 

The base or foundation of this blend, as will be no- 
ticed, is composed of Moning Congou, the Souchong en- 
riching it, and the Kaisow being added to give it the 
requisite flavor, the Pekoe imparting aroma, and the 
Oolong smoothness, while the Assam adds body, sharp- 
ness and pungency to the whole. 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 75 

No. 5. 

Another very similar scented Tea-blend that may be 
prepared cheaper, but which will not prove quite as sat- 
isfactory, is composed as follows : — 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Foochow Oolong @ 

i Orange Pekoe @ 

i Scented Caper @ 

2 Assam Congou @ 

2 China Souchong @ 

6 Kaisow Congou @ 

6 Moning Congou @ 

Average cost 

The Moning Congou forming the base of this com- 
bination not possessing the strength and flavor of these 
used in the first, an extra quantity of Assam is required to 
tone them up. The equal proportion of Kaisow impart- 
ing a richer flavor as well as toning down the high toast 
of the Assam used in it, the Pekoe giving an aroma or 
"bouquet" to the entire blend. 



BNGI/ISH TEA BZvEJIIVJO®. 

Blended Teas are the rule in England, where the skill- 
ful mixing of Teas has become a science very little, if 
any, Tea being sold to consumers in its original state, 
every dealer, both wholesale and retail, being noted for 
or identified with some unique or particularly flavored 
blend of Tea. The majority of these combinations, 
although markedly distinct and differing widely in flavor 
md almost opposite in character, are skillfully combined, 
he greatest care being taken that no Tea is introduced 
nto a blend that may act detrimentally upon the others 
brming the combination, which proves that no matter 
low great the divergence in the Teas whenever knowl- 
edge and judgment is brought to bear on the subject 



76 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

success is sure to follow. And, again, that, although 
most of the combinations are exceedingly popular, 
there is still ample room for the introduction of new 
ones as well as for improvement on those in use at pres- 
ent. But the knowledge and skill displayed by English 
Tea dealers in this particular branch of their business is 
only attained by frequent tests and experiments, that is, 
by generally mixing together from three to five samples 
of Tea differing in variety, grade and character, and 
alternately changing and substituting the qualities and 
quantities until they eventually succeed in producing a 
Tea at a more moderate price, identified with themselves, 
and more satisfactory to their customers, in addition to 
differing in every respect from the Teas offered by their 
competitors. 



No. 1. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Fruity Moning Congou @ 

I Fine Ceylon Congou @ 

I Fine Assam Congou @ 

i Fine Scented Caper @ 






Average cost 

The Moning should be thick and heavy in liquor and I 
also the Ceylon, while the Caper must be highly 
scented. 



No. 2. 

Varieties. 

.Oopack Congou 

.Ceylon Congou 

.Assam Pekoe-Souchong. 
.China Scented Caper. . . 



Average cost 

In this blend the Oopack must not be thin, " woody ' 
or old, while the Caper should be selected more for its 
high scent and strength rather than its style. Th( 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 77 

Ceylon Congou heavy in draw and the Pekoe-Souchong 
strong and pungent. 



No. 3. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Ceylon Congou @ 

i Ning-chow Congou @ 

I Broken-leaf Assam @ 

I Darjeeling Souchong @ 

Average cost 

The Ceylon Congou should be heavy and strong, 
the Ning-chow round and full, the Assam pungent and 
the Darjeeling possess as much character as possible at 
the price. 



No. 4. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Chingwo Congou . . . @ 

I Ceylon Souchong @ 

I Darjeeling Pekoe-Sonchong @ 

i Assam Orange Pekoe (a), 

Average cost 

The Chingwo must be first crop if obtainable, and the 
Ceylon thin, while the Indias should be rich, ripe and 
free from all coarseness. 



No. 5. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

i Oonfa Congou @ 

i Kaisow Congou @ 

I Darjeeling Pekoe @ 

I Assam Souchong @ 

i Ceylon Golden-Pekoe @, 

Average cost 

In this combination the Congous must be full and rich, 
and if a little " tarry" in flavor the better, but must not 
be old or sour. 



78 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



No. G. 

Variet.es. 

. Kintuck Congou @ 

.Ceylon Congou.. . @ 

.China Flowery Pekoe @ 

.Assam Orange Pekoe @ 

.Darjeeling Pekoe-Souchong @ 



Average cost 

Both the Congous must be first crop or of good grade, 
the China Pekoe highly scented and the India Pekoes 
thick in liquor and pungent in flavor. 



No. 7. 
Varieties. ] 

. Oonfa Congou @ 

Chingwo Congou @ 

. Foochow Oolong @ 

. Assam Pekoe-Souchong @ 

. China Scented Caper @, 



Average cost 

All tarriness and sourness must be avoided in the Con- 
gous, the Foochow heavy-bodied and the Caper full- 
scented, while the India must be of high grade and 
strength. 



No. 8. 

Varieties. ] 

.Kaisow Congou @ 

.Moning Congou @ 

. China Orange Pekoe @ 

. Assam Orange Pekoe @ 

. Darjeeling Orange Pekoe @ 



Average cost 

The Moning must be light and fragrant, the Kaisow, 
Souchong-flavored, the Assam full and rich, the Darjeel- 
ing fairly pungent and of good quality, while the China 
Pekoe should be very high scented. 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 79 



No. 9. 

Varieties. 

Kaisow Congou 

.Ning-chow Congou... . 
Lapsing Souchong. . . . 
Ceylon Orange Pekoe. 
Assam Orange Pekoe. 



Average cost 

In this combination the Congous should be fairly thick 
and fruity, the Souchong heavy and a little " tarry," 
the Ceylon smooth and the India pungent in liquor. 



No. 10. 

Parts. Varieties. 

I Ning-chow Congou. 

1 Chingwo Congou. . . 

2 Darjeeling Pekoe. . . 

6 Broken-leaf Assam. 



Broken-leaf Ceylon 

Average cost 



Many of the Tea-blends in use in England, although 
differing widely in liquor and flavor, are most skillfully 
combined, the greatest caution being taken that no Tea 
is introduced in them that may in any way act detriment- 
ally upon any of the other Teas forming the blend. As 
stated above, the majority of these English blends are 
markedly distinct in cup-qualities, in fact, almost dia- 
metrically opposite, the chief feature of one being a rich, 
ripe Tea, that of another being an even-leafed, delicate- 
flavored Tea, while the foundation of the third is composed 
of a plain grade, to which is added a rough, coarse or 
broken Tea, in order to increase its body or give point 
to the combination, a small quantity of some good, 
sweet, low-priced kind being frequently introduced to 



8o ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

reduce the cost. Again, after the English Tea dealer 
has once succeeded in producing a popular flavored 
Tea, he is most careful to keep the component parts 
of the blend as uniform as possible, and never per- 
mits even his employees to know of what Teas his 
combination is formed. He thus becomes celebrated 
for keeping a flavor and character of Tea that cannot be 
procured elsewhere at any price, and when once his 
customers becomes educated to that especial flavor they 
are sure to return again and again for it. 

RUSSIAN TEJA BLENDS. 

The Russians, who are a nation of Tea drinkers and use 
as much tea per head as the Chinese themselves, con- 
sume principally China Souchongs and the better grades 
of Congous, their blends and combinations being chiefly 
composed of these varieties, so that in sections populated 
with Russians, Russian Jews and Poles the appended 
specimens will suffice for their use : — 

No. 1. 

Intended for a cheap, strong, full-bodied Tea is com- 
posed of 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I Common Moning Congou @ 

I Common Kaisow Congou @ 

3 Common Lapsing Souchong (a} 



Average cost. 



No. 3. 

A good, heavy-bodied medium Tea is formed as fol- 
lows : — 

Parts. Vaiieties. Price. 

i Padrae Congou @ 

i Assam Pekoe-Souchong @ 

3 Lapsing Souchong @, 

Average cost 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



No. 3. 

Parts. Varieties. Pr 

I Kaisow Congou @ 

I Ning-chow Congou @ 

i China Orange Pekoe @ 

3 Lapsing Souchong @ 



Average cost. 



No. 4. 

Latterly, however, India and Ceylons are coming 
more into use in this country with this class of trade, so 
that combinations of China, India and Ceylons, such as 
the following, are very popular among them. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

2 India Congou @ 

4 Lapsing Souchong @ 

4 Ceylon Souchong @, 

Average cost 



No. 5. 

Parts. Varieties. Price. 

I India Souchong @ 

I Ceylon Souchong @ 

6 Lapsing Souchong @ 

Average cost 

In Russia the Samovar, or tea pot, is always steaming, 
and the natives never cease drinking tea while there is 
water left to prepare it. It is served at all hours of the 
day, in palace as well as hovel ; shops abound for its sale 
in all the principal cities, all business transactions being 
made and sealed over steaming goblets of Tea. But 
however great the number or wide the divergence in 
the liquors and flavors of the combinations here given, 
wherever knowledge and judgment is brought to bear on 
the subject, success is sure to follow the efforts of the 



82 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

dealer; and although the majority of the foregoing blends 
have been found exceedingly good by actual experience, 
there is still ample room for other combinations by the 
progressive Tea-blender as well as for great improve- 
ments upon those that are presented here. 



RUIZES F*OR SUCCESSFUL, TEA 
J3LVBNDIIVG. 

The great art of successful Tea blending consists in 
the combining of quality, strength, pungency with some 
particular liquor and distinct flavor so as to please the 
greatest number of consumers for whom the blend is in- 
tended, and at the same time to arrange the component 
parts in such a manner that this result may be attained 
at the smallest possible cost to the dealer. In order to 
accomplish this object three important points are neces- 
sary: (i.) The dealer must study to understand the 
tastes and preferences of his customers for whom the 
blend is to be prepared. (2.) He must learn to know 
which varieties and grades of Tea that will combine 
best to please this taste, and (3) He must learn to know 
how far the component parts of each blend can be varied 
when required without seriously affecting its uniformity, 
so that he may be the better enabled to take advantage 
of the cheapness of any special grade of Tea in the 
market. 

In the blending of China Congous it will be found 
most desirable to avoid the mixing of Teas of a heavy', 
strong or coarse description, such as " Red- Leaf " Teas 
of the Padrae and Saryune sorts with those of a highly 
flavored and delicate character, such as Monings and 
Chingwos, as to blend Teas of such markedly different 
characters will be found beneficial to neither. This rule 
also applies to Formosa Oolongs and the Congou sorts, as 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 83 

the briskness of the lower and livelier Tea is marred by 
the softness of the more delicate and flavory Tea in the 
combination, while the body of the former will be spoiled 
by the delicacy of the latter. 



The importance of retaining all blends regular and 
uniform — when once they have been adopted and proven 
satisfactory — cannot be overestimated, as what Tea 
dealer can expect continued success if his blends con- 
sist one week or month of fine, flavory Teas, the next of 
heavy, dull-liquored Teas, and the third of a sharp, 
pungent or astringent character ? Each new combination 
may possess good qualities of its own, all its component 
parts be skillfully and judiciously arranged and the mix- 
ing performed with the greatest care, but unless one or 
more good blends is decided on and then closely ad- 
hered to complaints will be made by the customers if they 
do not go elsewhere. To obtain this necessary uniformity 
is sometimes very difficult for the dealer, as no two 
invoices of Tea will be found exactly alike in all respects; 
and although Teas may be selected of about the same 
grade and quality, even chosen from those grown in the 
same district and blended in exactly the same propor- 
tions as in the combination they are intended to replace, 
the divergence may still be so great as to cause dissatis- 
faction among the customers. This variation may best 
be avoided by not changing more than one of the Teas, 
composing the blend at the same time, so that when a 
number of Teas are used in a blend the alteration of any 
one of them — providing that particular one is fairly 
matched — will make but a comparatively small difference 
in the combination. If the changes in the various Teas 
forming the blend are thus made gradually, few, if any, of 
the customers will detect the slight alteration in the blend. 



84 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

Scoops or other measures must not be relied on in the 
proper blending of Teas ; scales and weights must be in- 
variably used if the dealer wants to be precise and suc- 
cessful in the business. For if it is worth his time and 
trouble to test a number and variety of Teas in order 
that he may select the most suitable for the purpose, and 
then study how to arrange them in the best and most 
advantageous proportions, it certainly is worth the little 
extra time and trouble of not marring the qualities of his 
combinations by an injudicious and hap-hazard muddling 
of the quantities of the various parts composing the 
blends. This advantage oizvciglring the Teas for blend- 
ing is not excelled even by the advantages gained by the 
careful and judicious selection of the Teas for blending 
purposes. 

All Teas after being blended should be allowed to 
stand in the caddie or bin, tightly closed, for from a week 
to ten days before dispensing, in order that the different 
Teas composing the blends may have sufficient time to 
assimilate and to exchange or impart their opposite 
flavors to each other. For should they not be allowed 
to thus stand, and the Tea be used just as soon as the 
blend is prepared, first one and then another of its com- 
ponent parts will predominate in too great a proportion, 
ty which the time and trouble that has been taken in 
arranging the blend will have been to a large extent 
wasted and thrown away ; while if the mixture be allowed 
to remain in the bin or caddie as directed, it will eventu- 
ally become as one Tea and be always regular and uni- 
form in quality and flavor. 



Good, clean and sweet low-grade Teas being nearly 
always to be had for a few cents per pound above the 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. S5 

price of the cheap, trashy Teas now offered on the 
American market, it is only folly for the dealer to pur- 
chase the latter, as they are not cheap at any price, as 
by the supposed saving of these few cents in the pound, 
the seed is not only sown for the future ruin of the in- 
dividual dealer, but it also disgusts the public with Tea as 
an article of food, while on the other hand if the Tea dealer 
will make a comparatively small but requisite sacrifice 
for the sake of future gain, complete satisfaction will be 
given to his customers, the trade in Tea will be fostered 
and increased, and a great impetus given to its con- 
sumption by a discriminating public. 



A blend of Tea should never have its cost reduced by 
the introduction of a grade coarser in nature than that 
of a majority of the Teas forming the combination, so 
that low-grade Teas when used for reducing the cost of 
the blend should be as full, plain and sweet as possible. 
This is advisable for the reason that a Tea of such a 
pronounced character will more or less stamp its own 
impression upon any blend into which it may be intro- 
duced. Again, should the lowest-priced Tea in a blend 
be a Tea of a marked or inferior character instead of its 
being absorbed by the other Teas in the blend, its disa- 
greeable features will stand out prominently among them, 
while the superior qualities of the finer grades will be — 
if not entirely obliterated — yet so injured as to be scarcely 
recognizable. While if the component parts of the blend 
be so well arranged that the most powerful Tea constitut- 
ing it be also the highest grade Tea, the effect produced 
is that. the other Teas in it are raised to its level, but if 
the powerful Tea is one of the low-priced Teas the others 
naturally reduce to its standard. 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



Early picked or " first-crop " Teas should always be 
chosen when possible to obtain for blending purposes, as 
first-crop Teas are always superior to the later pickings 
in flavor and aroma, in the greater amount of Tlieine (the 
active principle of Tea) which they contain as well as in 
their keeping qualities and blending properties, in fact, in 
everything except body for which Tea is deemed valu- 
able; but in addition to selecting first-crop Teas for high- 
grade blends, it will be found advisable each season to 
ascertain the district yielding the best product, thus 
making quality as well as quantity the test of success, 
for as with wheat and other crops the Tea crop varies 
considerably according to the season, some years it is 
very good in one province or district while in others it 
may prove a comparative failure; thus one year a certain 
crop of Tea may be heavy and strong in liquor and 
flavor and next thin, weak and flavorless, while other 
" chops " that have been lacking in these qualities last year 
may possess the most desirable qualities this year. All 
varieties of Tea are equally subject to these variations, 
so that the advantages to be derived from a careful 
utilization of the best district crops of the year with but 
slight consideration will be very manifest to the dealer 
himself. 

The tastes in Tea of different communities varying 
widely, the dealer should study and learn the particular 
kind and flavor best adapted to the district or locality in 
which he is doing business, as a Tea that may suit one 
class of consumers will not sell at all in another, so that 
the dealer himself should ascertain by repeated trials 
what variety or grade of Tea best suits his own par- 
ticular trade. This object can best be accomplished by a 
series of experiments with the numerous kinds of Tea 



' 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 87 

and then noting and adopting the character and flavor 
of the Tea or Teas that gives the best satisfaction in 
price and quality to a majority of his patrons. Before 
proceeding to give formulas for any specific combina- 
tions it will be well for the dealer to consider the varie- 
ties and grades of Tea that will not blend satisfactorily 
as well as those which will assimilate best with each 
other, for it must not be forgotten for a moment by the 
dealer that Tea if not improved is certain to be injured 
by blending. But it is much easier for him to learn what 
Teas to avoid than what Teas to select, and what are 
best adapted to his particular trade. 

Generally in a thickly-populated manufacturing and 
mining district, or among all working classes in this 
country, heavy-bodied, sweet-drawing Amoy and dark- 
leaved, strong Foochow Oolongs will prove the most 
popular Teas for the base or foundation of all blends, 
while in a district composed chiefly of Irish, English or 
Scotch Tea consumers, Congous, Souchongs and the 
better grades of India and Ceylon Teas will be found 
to give the best satisfaction. In neighborhoods made 
up of Polish and Russian Jews, low-grade, dark-drawing, 
thick-liquored Congous and Souchongs, or combinations 
of these two varieties alone, will be found the most 
satisfactory, being known to them as Russian Teas, from 
the fact that these are the only sorts used among Rus- 
sian Tea drinkers. 

For the base of the best blends or for flavoring pur- 
poses among purely American Tea consumers a really 
choice Formosa Oolong wi'l be found an exceedingly 
valuable Tea, as a small quantity of fine or even toler- 
ably good Formosa Tea will permeate and taste through 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 



any combination, and most Tea drinkers, when once 
they become accustomed to its unique flavor, will rarely 
be pleased with any other Tea afterwards. The dried 
leaf of the choicer grades is small and artistically 
made, yellowish-black in color, while the infused leaf is 
bright green and uniform. The liquor is of a rich 
straw color, its value consisting in a combination of 
piquancy, pungency and delicate aroma. 



To successfully accomplish the building up of a prof- 
itable and permanent Tea business three things are 
requisite: (i.) The dealer must keep the best Teas 
obtainable at the most popular prices. (2.) He must let 
the public know by advertising or other means that he 
keeps them. (3.) It is also most important that all 
standard blends should possess some distinct or char- 
acteristic flavor by which it may be readily recognized 
by those who use it. But at the same time there is very 
little use in advertising or making known a Tea that does 
not possess intrinsic merit, as merit without some publicity 
makes but slow headway in these progressive times. 



One of the principal objects to keep in view in form- 
ing a Tea-blend is that it will come out well in the water 
in which it is to be infused; that it shall possess a flavor 
that will please the taste of a majority of the customers 
and at the same time be of such a distinctive character 
as to make the combination your own particular spe- 
cialty. But it must be borne in mind that Teas draw 
quite differently in hard and soft water, and the dealer's 
object should be to offer only the best possible Tea for 
the money expended. He should also avoid those kinds 
which are unsuitable to the water of his locality. 



ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 89 

Soft water has a great advantage over hard in the test- 
ing and preparation of Tea for use, so that many parts of 
the country possess an advantage over others in the 
use of Tea, as wherever the water is soft and pure far 
better results are obtained from an infusion of a given 
quantity of leaves than can be produced from the hard 
water of other sections. This difference arises from the 
now well-established fact that soft water dissolves a 
greater percentage of the tbeine — the active principle of 
Tea — than hard water, thus causing its properties to be- 
come more apparent, the coarseness as well as fineness 
being brought out to a greater extent by the action of 
the soft water in all cases, and consequently the too 
highly-fired and brisk-burnt Teas so much in favor in 
some sections of the country for low-priced blends are 
not liked at all in the sections where soft water alone is 
to be had. For this reason, also, Teas of the Congou 
and Souchong order are most appreciated where the 
water is soft, as the natural delicacy of their flavor is 
best extracted by soft water and in even greater propor- 
tions than is the flavor of the other varieties known to 
trade. 

In testing Teas by infusion or drawing for blending, four 
important facts must be borne in mind by the dealer : (/.) 
The water used for drawing them should be as soft and pure 
as can be obtained or filtered before using. (2.) It must 
be boiled as rapidly as possible and used only at the boiling 
point, and (j) It must be boiling, but must not overboil, 
for should it be allowed to overboil for even a few 
minutes it will not extract the full strength and aroma 
from the leaves. All Tea experts are most particular on 
these points, so much so that they have the kettle watched 
in order that the water may be poured on the Tea the 



90 ART OF BLENDING TEAS. 

moment it boils, and if any water remains in the kettle 
it is immediately poured away, as the effect of using 
water that has been boiled a second time is the same as 
that of water that has been permitted to overboil. Should 
the buyer, from neglect or indifference, use water that 
has not been boiled, the leaves in the cup will float on 
top and not sink to the bottom as in the case of boiling 
water, and should the water be overboiled or boiled a 
second time it will be readily detected by its appearance 
in the cup, the infusion being thin and insipid and of a 
peculiar, sickly color. (4.) The infusion should be 
allowed to draw from four to six minutes, according to 
the variety of Tea under treatment, that is, China and 
Japan Teas, five to six minutes, while India, Ceylon and 
Java Teas require only three to four minutes, owing to 
the great excess of tannin which they contain. But all 
the properties of the Tea that can be dissolved in the 
cup is fully extracted in from three to four minutes, five 
to six minutes being generally sufficient for all Teas, as 
the infusion is then at its best, but from that time on the 
Tea gradually loses its aroma and flavor until, if allowed 
to stand for half an hour, it becomes dull and insipid. 
Another important point must here be noted by the 
dealer, it is that a good Tea becomes better as it cools, 
while a poor Tea becomes poorer under the same condi- 
tions. 

The leaves of a choice, pure Tea will be found, after 
infusion, to be of a medium and uniform size, perfectly 
formed and unbroken and of a bright-green or dark- 
brown, according to the kind of Tea tested, that is, 
Oolongs, Green and Japan Teas will be greenish, while 
Congous, Souchongs, India, Ceylon and Java Teas will 
be dark-brown in color. All Teas of the Oolong varieties 



Art of blending teas. 91 

are subject to the same rules in judging them, and 
the same rules that govern in testing Green Teas will 
also apply to Japans. While the selection of Indias, 
Ceylons and Teas of the China-Congou sorts are also 
governed by similar rules in testing and selecting. 



Still another important point for the dealer to keep in 
mind is the necessity of securing Teas that will draw 
well in the water of his district. To aid in this selection 
the following kinds are suggested : — 

For Very Hard Water — Padrae,Saryune and strong, 
"tarry" Oonfa Congous are best, also Indias of the 
Ascam variety and heavy-drawing Ceylons, including 
broken-leaf Pekoes are best adapted. 

For Medium Hard Water— Flavory India Teas, 
including Cachars, Darjeeling and Ceylons of all kinds, 
first crop Panyongs and rich, thick, round Keemun 
Congous, Oolongs, Japans and Green Teas of all grades. 

For Soft Water — All varieties and grades of Oolong, 
Green, Scented and Japan Teas, Ningchow, Paklin and 
Chingwo Congous, light-drawing Indias and Ceylons of 
nearly all kinds as well as all descriptions of high-flavored 
Teas. 



FART Vie 



ART OP KEjESI^rFfO, eSE2r«X*INO 

and F»RESF»A:reiivG tea. 



^T'HE utmost care is necessary in the keeping and 
\jT\ handling of Tea in order to prevent from deterio- 
rating in strength and flavor or otherwise decay- 
ing until disposed of. It should therefore whenever 
possible be kept by itself in a moderately warm temper- 
ature and always covered over until required, and when 
any of the packages have been opened and the contents 
not all removed, care must be taken to replace the lead 
lining, lid and matting, so as to exclude the dust and 
damp as well as all foreign odors that may surround it. 
For this reason also Tea should never be exposed in 
windows or at store-doors where the air, damp and dust 
surely and rapidly destroy all semblance to its original 
condition. 

All Teas when once they have ripened and become 
seasoned commence to decay, but there is a vast difference 
in the time that some varieties will last before the dete- 
rioration becomes objectionable in comparison with others. 
Some kinds, such as Foochow and Formosa Oolongs, 
keeping for a year or more. China Congous and Sou- 
chongs and Japan Teas from six to eight months, while 
Scented Teas, India and Ceylon Teas, after a much 



94 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 

briefer period become dull and brackish, and it frequently 
happens that when the latter are a year old they are 
worth only half their original cost. 



All Teas possessing a natural aptitude to become 
impregnated with foreign flavor of any product placed 
near it, and to absorb the foul odors by which they may 
be surrounded, should be kept as far apart as possible 
from any high-smelling articles in the dealer's stock — 
such as soap, fish, spices and oils of all kinds — as they 
very rapidly absorb any pungent odors that may be in 
their immediate vicinity. And Teas have even been 
known to completely alter their flavor and character by 
being placed too close to molasses, oranges and lemons, 
therefore it becomes important for the dealer not to keep 
Teas too near any product emitting a foul or strong 
aroma. For this reason also they should not be dis- 
pensed out of freshly-painted bins or caddies, it being 
much more preferable at all times to deal them out of the 
original lead-lined chests, replacing the lid until required. 
Again, Teas should never be mixed in rainy, damp or 
humid weather, as they are bound to absorb and be 
injured by the oxydizing influences of the atmosphere, 
nor must they be kept too near a fire or stove, a dry, 
cool atmosphere of moderate temperature being always 
best for them. 

Of the numerous commodities dealt in by the grocer 
there is none so important as that of Tea, this impor- 
tance being due to its value as a trade-making, trade-re- 
taining and profit-producing article, particularly when 
furnished of such quality as to give permanent satisfac- 
tion to the general public as well as to the regular cus- 
tomer. But notwithstanding its importance in these 



ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 95 

respects there is no article handled by the grocer the 
quality and value of which is so little understood by the 
average dealer. Again assailed as the retail grocery busi- 
ness now is by keen competition from so many queer 
Teas, the necessity for a better knowledge of and more 
careful attention to the article is at once apparent if the 
grocer — to whom its sale of right belongs — is not to find 
the almost entire withdrawal of this article from his line 
of business. 

To properly understand the selecting and blending of 
Teas is therefore to be possessed of a valuable and profit- 
able knowledge; but while such proficiency is not within 
the scope of every dealer, the study of these points to 
any extent will prove not only lucrative but entertaining 
and instructive. And while it may be claimed that such 
a study will occupy too much valuable time, or that it is 
much more economical to purchase from the wholesale 
Tea blender, still the great importance of a better acquaint- 
ance with such knowledge and experience must be evi- 
dent to the dealer. For the proper blending of Tea the 
dealer should be provided with a small kettle and other 
apparatus for filtering and boiling the water as conven- 
iently and rapidly as possible. Small scales for weighing 
the samples of Tea to be tested, pots for drawing and 
cups for tasting, and so start from the beginning. 



Samples of the Teas desired having been procured from 
different houses should then be drawn and tested and a 
careful examination made of the leaves of each, their 
size, color, condition and smell being closely noted. In 
such drawings all Teas of an objectionable character 
should be set aside, and those remaining on the boards 
carefully arranged in the order of their value ; but should 



96 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 



any doubt exist in giving a decision between the several 
samples as to their superiority, then the drawing should 
be repeated and the poorer ones rejected, thus narrowing 
down the contest to the best Teas. Again, where it 
proves difficult to decide between the cup qualities of 
those remaining, then the size, style, condition and 
weight of the dry leaf should be taken into considera- 
tion, which will be found helpful in making the required 
decision. The decision having been arrived at, however, 
the Tea considered best may also be higher in price than 
some others approximating to it in style and drawing 
qualities, and if it be found that it cannot be purchased 
except at a price considerably higher than others on the 
table approaching it closely, it will be better under such 
circumstances to select another Tea, grading second, or 
even third in quality, at a much lower figure. An excel- 
lent plan for the careful Tea blender is to have a " type" 
or standard sample of the Tea he desires to duplicate and 
which he has found to be satisfactory, and samples of 
Tea of the various kinds of known value should always 
be kept convenient for reference, and in air-tight tins, 
with their grade, price, character, chop mark and year of 
production marked thereon. 



AldtT OP {SlSZ^IvIlVG TEA. 

The dealer having succeeded in selecting and blending 
Teas that will please his customers, the next most impor- 
tant consideration for him is how best to bring them be- 
fore the notice of his trade and the public generally. In 
this case he must not treat his Tea as a " staple " article, 
but as an entirely new commodity requiring a special 
effort for its introduction. Nothing gives such a bad 
impression to Tea customers as careless and slovenly 






Art of keeping, selling and preparing tea. 97 

packing of Tea. All Tea bags should be of fine quality 
and neatly, if not artistically, printed, and great care 
should be taken to obtain neatness of appearance in 
tying them up. The dealer should also have some spe- 
cial and appropriate name for his blends, this brand 
appearing prominently on the package, together with 
specific instructions for drawing the Tea. Small hand- 
bills, brief, pointed and attractive, describing the merits of 
the blend may also be placed in every purchase of other 
goods and sugar, and other bags or wrappers should con- 
tain special notices so that they may reach others who 
do not buy Tea, and the clerks or salesmen should also 
be instructed to talk up the Tea frequently but judiciously 
as possible. 

The dealer should ascertain where customers for 
other goods get their Tea, what variety or grade it is, 
what price they pay for it, and, if possible, obtain a 
sample of it. Then test it carefully and be prepared to 
show that he can not only match it, but furnish a better 
one in both price and quality, giving them samples at the 
same time to prove it. And again, if a tea customer 
should quit dealing suddenly he should immediately 
find out the cause and endeavor to remedy it. He 
should also send out samples occasionally throughout 
the neighborhood of a line of Teas that he may deem 
suitable to the locality. But above and beyond all other 
efforts to increase his Tea trade, he should handle only 
high-grade Teas, endeavoring at all times to prove that 
the finer Teas are the most economical and satisfactory 
to purchase in the end, as the finer grades yield a larger 
margin of profit to the dealer and better satisfaction to 
the consumer, while it has a tendency to create favorable 
comment and win an increasing Tea trade. 






98 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TE\. 

Latterly, a new development in the Tea trade has, to 
the surprise and loss of the older generation of retail 
grocers and Tea dealers, assumed quite a prominence, 
for, if the glowing advertisements and startling placards 
in stores and on fences form any criterion, the public 
are taking a liking to the cheap and trashy-blended Teas 
put up in tins, lead, paper and other Tea-deteriorating 
packages under fancy names which have no relation 
whatever to the variety, district or country where they 
are grown, it being an acknowledged principle that Teas 
blended in bulk and put back again in their original 
lead-lined chests undoubtedly keep better, preserving its 
strength and flavor longer than when exposed to the 
oxydizing influences of the atmosphere during its trans- 
ference to the tin, lead or paper packets ornamented with 
a cheap and showy label, which the more gorgeous they 
are the more apt to communicate the taste of the ink, 
paste, glue or other foul-smelling material in which it is 
packed to the Tea they are intended to adorn. 






And still another reason why the Grocer and Tea 
dealer should avoid these blended packet Teas is that 
the cost of the packages, labels and labor, adds from 
eight to ten cents per pound to the original price of the 
Tea, in addition to the cost of advertising and flaunting 
them before the eyes of the public, an expense which is 
simply enormous in itself, and which the dealer and 
consumer must eventually pay for, either by a higher 
price or inferior quality of the Tea. Again, engaged as 
most dealers are at the present time in trying to stop the 
plague of all sorts of proprietary goods put up in cheap 
and oftentimes ill-smelling packages, which yields them 
so little profit and makes them only the servants of the 
packers, it is astonishing, to say the least, that any 



ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 99 

dealer can be found to adopt the same system with Tea 
when they can put up some favorite blend, and pack it 
themselves in cleaner, cheaper and more stylish packages, 
if their customers should desire it in that form, and sell 
them under their own brand and name, and not work to 
make money and a reputation for others who dictate to 
him as to what he shall or shall not do with regard to 
selling Teas. For instance, you are paying 43 cents for 
Package Tea with premiums, if you handle it. You sell 
this Tea at 60 cents, making 17 cents per pound profit. 
Now by putting up your own blend and giving your 
own premiums you can buy just as good Tea, or better, 
for 20 cents per pound. You can buy just as good 
premiums to stand you 12 cents per pound, making 32 
cents instead of 43, or a saving of 1 1 cents or 33^3 per 
cent. Besides, you control your own Tea trade and 
have the advertising free. 



The art of selling Tea is even a much more difficult 
one than that of buying, owing to the numerous different 
and varying tastes to be catered to. For this reason 
alone the dealer should learn all he possibly can about 
the article, in order that he may be enabled to suit each 
particular liking and at the same time answer any and all 
questions about it intelligently. Find out what grade 
and variety as well as the desired strength and flavor of 
the Tea your customers prefer, and occasionally give 
them small samples of the different blends to try until 
you have caught their taste. Make a note of same, and 
always afterwards endeavor to give them as near the 
same kind and quality. Talk up your Teas in a clear 
and practical manner, and be sure your scales, weights 
and scoops are always clean and shining, and keep a 
small memorandum book in which to mark the kind and 



IOO ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 

retail prices of your Teas, the date in which the caddie 
has been filled and the quantity it holds, as this method 
gives an accurate idea of the quantity of Tea sold in a 
certain time, which will be found particularly useful when 
Blended Teas are largely sold. 

In brief, advertise your Teas freely but judiciously and 
modestly, never claiming too much for them, that is, let 
your advertisements be brief but novel, and change the 
same at least once per week, and always push your high- 
grade Teas first, last and all the time. Now and then 
give a Tea-testing exhibit in your store by fixing up a 
space near the door or window as a Tea-room surrounded 
by Tea-boxes with fancy faces, hanging some Chinese or 
Japanese lanterns around with which to light up at night 
to attract attention. Inside of which place a small Tea- 
table, a small gas stove, with kettle and cups for drawing 
the Tea. By this means the dealer will be enabled to 
prepare fresh-made Tea at all times, with fresh-boiled 
water, of any kind the customer may desire to taste or 
to push the sale of any particular blend he may desire 
to introduce among his trade. But it is advisable at 
these exhibits to use only fine Teas, using the common 
grades only by way of comparison. By this means the 
dealer can conveniently and readily point out to the cus- 
tomer the great advantages to be gained and economy of 
purchasing only high-grade Teas. Instruct your patrons 
meantime how to properly prepare Tea for use, emphasiz- 
ing the fact that Tea must be brewed and not stewed, as is 
too often the case among consumers. 

A.RTT OP PREPARING TEA FOR USE. 

It is singular, to say the least, that nothing is ever done 
by Tea dealers in this country to educate or enlighten 



ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. IOI 

their customers in the proper manner of preparing their 
Tea for use, to study the character of the water or to 
preserve its aromatic properties after purchasing. Good 
Tea, like good wine, can be kept intact for years with 
considerable advantage to the dealer and consumer alike, 
and there is no valid reason why consumers of Tea 
should not be as particular and fastidious as drinkers of 
wine. But to obtain a good cup of Tea, in the first place 
the consumer should purchase only the best Tea, it 
requiring much less of the finer grades to make good 
Tea than of the common kinds, and will prove the most 
economical in the end. 

In the proper preparation of Tea for use, the quality 
of the infusion is much affected also by the character of 
the water as well as by the method of making or draw- 
ing it. Tea being an infusion and not a decoction like 
coffee, it should be brewed not stewed, the chief object 
being to extract as much of the theine or refreshing 
principle as possible and as little of the tannin or astrin- 
gent property as can be, at the same time without either 
boiling or overdrawing it. Many Tea drinkers who 
imagine erroneously that a very dark-colored liquor indi- 
cates strength boil the leaves, while others again spoil 
the infusion by first putting the leaves in boiling water. 
Some again place the leaves in cold water, and then put 
the vessel on the fire to boil, prolonged infusion being 
another serious mistake. All of these improper methods 
produce the same evil results, viz., that of extracting an 
increased amount of the tannin, thereby destroying the 
true color and flavor of the Tea by imparting a blackish 
color and giving a bitter or astringent taste to the liquor. 
When Tea has been once boiled or overdrawn, the 
increased quantity of tannin extracted can be readily 



102 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 

detected by the extreme dark color of the liquor as well 
as by its bitterly astringent flavor. Another reprehensible 
practice of some Tea makers is that of adding fresh 
leaves into the tea pot with those that have been already 
once drawn, as it cannot add to either the strength or 
flavor of the Tea by putting more leaves in the tea pot 
after the first drawing, for the simple reason that the Tea 
water will not extract the theine from the dry leaves of 
the fresh Tea. Only fresh boiling water will do this 
effectually, the water once used only increases the amount 
of tannin extracted, thereby darkening the color and 
destroying the flavor and merely adds to the quantity of 
leaves already in the vessel without at all affecting the 
active principle, theine. So that if it be required to 
increase the quantity or strength of the infusion already 
in the pot, some fresh Tea leaves must be drawn in a 
separate vessel and the liquor poured in that already 
made. 

In the proper preparation of Tea for use, therefore, 
the object should be to extract as little of the tannin as 
possible and as much of the theine and volatile oil as 
can be extracted without permitting the infusion to boil 
or overdraw. To best obtain these most desirable re- 
sults, put the requisite quantity of Tea leaves in a 
covered china or earthenware pot — all tin and metal 
vessels should be avoided — and pour in freshly boiling 
water that has been boiling for at least three minutes, 
and then allow the vessel to stand where it will keep hot, 
without boiling, for from eight to ten minutes before 
serving, according to the variety of Tea used. There 
will be a sparkle and aroma about Tea made from fresh 
boiling water in this manner that it will not receive 
from the flat, hot water that has been boiled too long or 






ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. IO.} 



repeatedly. In the stated time while the Tea is drawing 
only the refreshing and exhilarating properties — the 
theine and volatile oil — are extracted from the leaves, a 
longer infusion only dissolving and extracting the 
astringent and deleterious principle — tannic acid — which 
impairs digestion and injures the nervous system, for 
which causes alone all boiled or overdrawn Tea should 
be avoided. 

An earthern tea pot made of Minton, Doulton, or 
Satsuma ware, is the best kind of vessel to prepare Tea 
in, but it must first be scalded out with boiling water 
before putting the Tea leaves in and then set on the 
range or stove to dry and keep hot for a few minutes. 
The Tea leaves are then put in, after which they are also 
allowed to heat for a short time before the boiling water 
is poured on them, from eight to ten minutes before the 
Tea is required for use. The character of the water also 
greatly influences the quality of the Tea, it being almost 
next to impossible to make good Tea with hard water, 
so that soft water should always be used when available, 
and any excess of lime in the water also deteriorates the 
infusion. But this latter difficulty may be easily 
remedied by the judicious addition of a little carbonate 
of soda, as much as will cover the face of a dime being 
sufficient for an ordinary drawing of Tea. 



In moderate strength it requires about one teaspoon- 
ful of good tea to a half pint of boiling water and an or- 
dinary half teacupful of leaves to every quart of boiling 
water, the latter making a fairly strong infusion for five 
persons. China and Japan Teas require from eight to 
ten minutes to draw thoroughly, the former requiring 
but little milk and sugar, while Japan Teas are more 



104 ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA. 

palatable without the addition of either. India Ceylon and 
Java Teas generally should not be allowed to draw more 
than from five to seven minutes at the outside after the 
boiling water has been poured on, as prolonged infusion 
makes the flavor of these varieties particularly mawkish 
and bitter, while the addition of an extra quantity of both 
milk and sugar greatly improves their drinking qualities. 



joseri n. wdLsn 



i 

1 

1 




1 

i ■ 




i 

i 
1 

, 1 



(America's Greatest Tea Expert.— Journal of Commerce) 
IMPORTER OF 




PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. 



iP -v 














^- * 




